🔧 Yukon - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, take off the brake calipers and brackets, replace the rotors and pads, then reassemble and bed-in the new pads. This restores safe stopping power and fixes grinding, pulsing, or thin pads/warped rotors.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the Yukon with jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Release the parking brake before starting (rear rotors can trap the parking brake shoes).
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose—support it with a hanger.
• ⚠️ Keep brake fluid off paint; wipe spills immediately.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 22mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (30-250 ft-lbs range)
• 13mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range)
• Flat trim/pry tool
• C-clamp brake piston compressor
• Bungee cord or brake caliper hook
• Wire brush
• Rubber mallet
• Brake parts cleaner spray
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
• Rear brake pad hardware/clip kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner spray - Qty: 2
• Medium-strength threadlocker (blue) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and turn the engine off.
• Chock the front wheels with wheel chocks.
• Make sure the parking brake is fully released.
• Open the hood and check the brake fluid level; as you compress pistons, the fluid level can rise.
• Take a photo of each side before disassembly.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen rear wheel lug nuts

• Use a 22mm socket with a 1/2" drive breaker bar to loosen (do not remove) the rear lug nuts.

Step 2: Lift and support the rear

• Use a floor jack to lift the rear at the approved rear jacking point.
• Place jack stands under solid frame points and lower the Yukon onto them.
• Shake the vehicle lightly to confirm it’s stable.

Step 3: Remove the rear wheels

• Remove the lug nuts using the 22mm socket and 1/2" drive breaker bar, then remove the wheels.

Step 4: Remove the rear brake caliper (the clamp that squeezes the pads)

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed for the rear; just position yourself for access.
• Use a 13mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the caliper slide pin bolts.
• Carefully lift the caliper off the pads/rotor.
• Support the caliper with a bungee cord or brake caliper hook—do not hang it by the hose.

Step 5: Remove the caliper bracket (the mount that holds the pads)

• The caliper bracket is the larger metal piece the pads sit in.
• Use an 18mm socket with a 1/2" drive breaker bar to remove the two caliper bracket bolts.
• Set the bracket aside.

Step 6: Remove the old rotor

• If the rotor is stuck, spray the hub area with brake parts cleaner spray and let it soak briefly.
• Tap the rotor hat (the thick center area) using a rubber mallet until it breaks free, then remove it.
• If it still won’t come off, confirm the parking brake is fully released.

Step 7: Clean and prep the hub surface

• Use a wire brush to clean rust from the hub face (where the rotor sits).
• Spray with brake parts cleaner spray and wipe with shop towels.
• A clean hub helps prevent pedal pulsation.

Step 8: Install the new rotor

• Clean the new rotor faces using brake parts cleaner spray and shop towels (removes shipping oil).
• Slide the new rotor onto the hub.
• To hold it in place, hand-thread one lug nut on backwards a few turns (optional).

Step 9: Service the caliper bracket hardware

• Remove the old pad clips from the bracket using a flat trim/pry tool.
• Clean the pad “shelves” on the bracket with a wire brush so the pads can slide freely.
• Install the new hardware clips (from the hardware kit) by hand.
• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone) where the pads contact the clips (not on rotor/pad friction surfaces).

Step 10: Reinstall the caliper bracket

• Position the bracket over the new rotor.
• Apply medium-strength threadlocker (blue) to the bracket bolts.
• Install and tighten the bolts using an 18mm socket and 1/2" drive torque wrench.
• Torque to 170 Nm (125 ft-lbs)

Step 11: Compress the rear caliper piston

• Place one old pad against the caliper piston face.
• Use a C-clamp brake piston compressor to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir as you compress; remove a little fluid if it gets too high.
• Compress slowly to avoid damaging seals.

Step 12: Install the new pads

• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.
• Make sure pads slide easily in the clips; if they bind, re-clean the bracket contact points with the wire brush.
• Apply a small amount of brake caliper grease (silicone) to pad backing/contact points where they touch the caliper/bracket (keep grease off the pad friction surface).

Step 13: Reinstall the caliper

• Lower the caliper over the new pads and rotor.
• Install the slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket.
• Tighten using a 3/8" drive torque wrench.
• Torque to 31 Nm (23 ft-lbs)

Step 14: Repeat on the other rear side

• Repeat Steps 4–13 on the opposite rear wheel.
• Do one side at a time to stay organized.

Step 15: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the Yukon off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a 1/2" drive torque wrench.
• Torque to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine off, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the pads).
• Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
• Start the engine and confirm the brake pedal remains firm.
• Do a slow test drive and verify no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• Bed-in (break-in) procedure: make 6–10 moderate stops from ~30 mph down to ~5 mph, allowing 30–60 seconds between stops for cooling.
• Recheck lug nut torque after 50–100 miles using a 1/2" drive torque wrench.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $600-$1,050 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $220-$500 (parts only)

You Save: $380-$550 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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