🔧 Wrangler - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, unbolt the brake caliper and bracket, swap the rotor, then install new pads and reassemble. On your Wrangler, the parking brake is a small drum brake inside the rotor “hat,” so the parking brake must be fully released for the rotor to come off.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
• ⚠️ Support the rear axle with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Release the parking brake fully before starting (rotor won’t come off if it’s applied).
• ⚠️ Don’t let the caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a hanger.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm lug nut socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive ratchet
• 13mm socket
• 18mm socket
• Torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range)
• C-clamp (6" or larger)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Rubber mallet
• Wire brush
• Bungee cord or mechanics wire
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear brake hardware kit (pad clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
• High-temp silicone brake grease - Qty: 1
• DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 quart

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, leave the transmission in gear, and release the parking brake.
• Chock both front wheels with wheel chocks.
• Crack the rear lug nuts loose using a 19mm lug nut socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and remove the brake master cylinder cap (leave it sitting on top) so fluid can move when you compress the pistons.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the rear

• Use a floor jack to lift under the rear axle center.
• Place jack stands under the axle tubes (left and right) and lower the Jeep onto them.
• Remove both rear wheels using a 19mm lug nut socket and ratchet.

Step 2: Remove the rear caliper

• Turn the steering wheel straight and locate the two caliper slide bolts on the back of the caliper.
• Remove the slide bolts using a 13mm socket and ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it from the suspension using a bungee cord or mechanics wire. Never strain the brake hose.

Step 3: Remove pads and caliper bracket

• Slide the old pads out of the bracket by hand. Use a flathead screwdriver gently if they’re stuck.
• Remove the caliper bracket bolts using an 18mm socket and breaker bar.
• Set the bracket aside.

Step 4: Remove the rotor (and deal with a stuck rotor if needed)

• Pull the rotor straight off the wheel studs by hand.
• If it’s stuck, tap the rotor hat between studs using a rubber mallet to break rust loose.
• If it still won’t come off, the parking brake shoes may be tight inside the rotor hat; ensure the parking brake is fully released, then tap again with the rubber mallet.

Step 5: Prep the hub and new rotor

• Clean the hub face with a wire brush so the new rotor sits flat.
• Spray the new rotor friction surfaces with brake cleaner and wipe clean (removes shipping oil).
• Install the new rotor onto the studs.

Step 6: Service slide pins and install new hardware

• Remove the old pad clips from the bracket using a flathead screwdriver.
• Clean the bracket pad lands (where clips sit) using a wire brush.
• Install new clips from the hardware kit.
• Pull the caliper slide pins out (they slide out by hand), wipe them clean, and apply a thin coat of high-temp silicone brake grease, then reinstall.

Step 7: Reinstall bracket and torque bolts

• Reinstall the caliper bracket over the new rotor.
• Tighten bracket bolts using an 18mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 122 Nm (90 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old brake pad against the piston face.
• Use a C-clamp (6" or larger) to slowly push the piston back into the caliper.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir; if it gets too high, remove a little fluid (don’t overflow onto paint).
• Slow is smooth—avoid damaging seals.

Step 9: Install new pads and reinstall caliper

• Install the new pads into the bracket (make sure they sit squarely in the clips).
• Slide the caliper over the pads.
• Install and tighten the caliper slide bolts using a 13mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 47 Nm (35 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and lower

• Reinstall both rear wheels using a 19mm lug nut socket and ratchet.
• Lower the rear off the stands using the floor jack.
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 129 Nm (95 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Pump the brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the pads).
• Reinstall the brake fluid cap and verify fluid level is between MIN and MAX.
• Test at low speed first. Verify normal braking and no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• Bed-in the pads (break-in): make 6-10 moderate stops from 30-40 mph, letting brakes cool a bit between stops.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $290-$450 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.