🔧 CR-V - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll remove the rear calipers and brackets, replace the pads and rotors, then set the parking brake (it uses small brake shoes inside the rear rotor “hat”). Doing it carefully prevents noise, vibration, and uneven braking.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.0-4.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
• ⚠️ Release the parking brake before removing rear rotors (the parking brake is inside the rotor).
• ⚠️ Support the caliper with a hook/strap—do not let it hang by the rubber brake hose.
• ⚠️ Avoid breathing brake dust; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Brake fluid can damage paint; wipe spills immediately.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 12mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Torque wrench (10–150 ft-lbs range)
• Disc brake piston compressor tool (specialty)
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Phillips #3 bit screwdriver
• Impact driver kit (specialty)
• Hammer
• Wire brush
• Pick tool
• 8mm x 1.25 bolts (2 pcs, 25–40mm long)
• Bungee cord or mechanic’s hook
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
• Rear brake hardware/clip kit - Qty: 1
• Silicone brake grease - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
• DOT 3 brake fluid - As needed - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, set the transmission to Park, and chock both front wheels.
• 🧯 Release the parking brake fully (important for rotor removal).
• 🧼 Turn the steering wheel straight and keep the key out of the ignition.
• 🧰 Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; do not let it overflow when compressing pistons.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and lift the rear

• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to loosen (do not remove) the rear lug nuts.
• Lift the rear with a floor jack at the rear jacking point, then support with jack stands under the rear pinch welds or approved support points.
• Remove both rear wheels with the 19mm socket.

Step 2: Remove the rear caliper (do not open the brake line)

• Use a 12mm socket and ratchet to remove the two caliper slide pin bolts.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket, then hang it using a bungee cord or mechanic’s hook.
• If it’s tight, wiggle—don’t pry the hose.

Step 3: Remove pads and inspect slide pins

• Pull the old pads out of the bracket by hand or using a flat-blade screwdriver.
• Slide the caliper pins in/out by hand; if sticky, remove them, clean, and apply a thin coat of silicone brake grease.
• Use a pick tool to lift/inspect the pin boots for tears.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket

• Use a 17mm socket and breaker bar to remove the two caliper bracket bolts.
• Set the bracket aside.
• On reassembly: Torque to 88 N·m (65 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove the rotor (and back off parking brake if stuck)

• If your rotor has retaining screws, use a Phillips #3 bit screwdriver with an impact driver kit (specialty) to remove them.
• If the rotor won’t come off, thread the two 8mm x 1.25 bolts into the rotor “push” holes and tighten evenly with the ratchet until the rotor pops loose.
• If it still won’t come off, the parking brake shoes may be holding it: remove the rubber access plug (backing plate) with a flat-blade screwdriver and use the screwdriver to turn the star-wheel adjuster to retract the shoes.
• Turn the adjuster a little at a time.

Step 6: Clean the hub and install the new rotor

• Use brake cleaner spray and shop towels to clean the new rotor surfaces (shipping oil).
• Use a wire brush to clean rust off the hub face so the rotor sits flat.
• Install the new rotor onto the hub.
• If reinstalling rotor screws, tighten with the Phillips #3 bit screwdriver: Torque to 6 N·m (4 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Set the parking brake shoe adjustment (inside the rotor)

• Through the access hole, use a flat-blade screwdriver to turn the star-wheel adjuster until the rotor starts to drag when you spin it by hand.
• Back the adjuster off slightly until the rotor spins freely with just a faint, even rub.
• Reinstall the rubber access plug by hand.

Step 8: Install new pad hardware and pads

• Remove old pad clips from the bracket using a flat-blade screwdriver.
• Install new clips from the hardware kit by hand (they snap in).
• Apply a very thin film of silicone brake grease where the pad “ears” slide on the clips (do not get grease on pad friction material).
• Install the new pads into the bracket by hand.

Step 9: Reinstall the bracket

• Position the bracket over the rotor and start both bolts by hand.
• Tighten using a 17mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 88 N·m (65 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Compress the caliper piston and reinstall the caliper

• Place an old pad against the piston, then use a disc brake piston compressor tool (specialty) to slowly press the piston fully back into the caliper.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing; remove a little fluid if it approaches the top.
• Reinstall the caliper over the pads.
• Install slide pin bolts using a 12mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 34 N·m (25 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Repeat on the other rear wheel

• Repeat Steps 2–10 on the opposite side.
• Always replace pads/rotors in pairs.

Step 12: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

• Install wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the CR-V off the stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 108 N·m (80 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the new pads).
• ✅ Check the brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
• ✅ Test the parking brake: it should hold the CR-V securely and typically engage within a few clicks.
• ✅ Do a cautious test drive and confirm no grinding, pulling, or pulsation.
• ✅ Pad bedding (break-in): make 6–10 smooth stops from ~30–35 mph down to ~5 mph, with cooling time between stops.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $550-$950 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$380 (parts only)

You Save: $390-$570 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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