🔧 Gladiator - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, swing the rear calipers out of the way, replace the pads and hardware, then reassemble and verify proper brake operation. Because your Gladiator uses the rear brakes for parking brake function on many builds, the key is retracting the caliper piston correctly before installing the new, thicker pads.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on level ground and chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
• 🛑 Support the truck with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• 🛑 Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.
• 🛑 If equipped with an electronic parking brake (EPB), retract it before compressing pistons or you can damage the caliper.
• 🛑 Brake dust is irritating—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Wheel chocks
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 22mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20–200 ft-lbs range)
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 13mm socket
• 21mm socket
• Flathead screwdriver
• Brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty)
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Scan tool with EPB service function (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone-based) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to neutral, and keep the truck from rolling with wheel chocks at the front tires.
• Loosen rear lug nuts 1/2 turn before lifting using a 22mm socket and breaker bar.
• If your Gladiator has an EPB switch (button), plan to put the EPB into service mode before you try to push the pistons back.
• Pop the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; you’ll watch the fluid level as you compress pistons so it doesn’t overflow.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the rear axle, one side at a time.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under solid axle/support points and lower onto the stands.
• Remove the rear wheels using a 22mm socket and breaker bar.

Step 2: Retract the parking brake (EPB) if equipped

• If you have an electronic parking brake: use a scan tool with EPB service function (specialty) and select the EPB “Service/Pad Replacement” function to retract.
• If you do not have EPB (cable-style lever/cables): fully release the parking brake and continue.
• If unsure, look for a motor on the caliper.

Step 3: Remove the caliper and pads

• A “caliper” is the clamp that squeezes the pads onto the rotor.
• Use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry the caliper outward a little to relieve pad tension.
• Remove the caliper slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it with a bungee cord so the brake hose isn’t strained.
• Slide the old inner and outer pads out of the bracket by hand.

Step 4: Remove/replace the pad hardware and clean the bracket

• Pull the stainless pad clips (abutment clips) off the bracket by hand or with a flathead screwdriver.
• Use a wire brush to clean rust where the clips sit.
• Spray the area with brake cleaner spray and let it dry.
• Install the new clips from the rear brake pad hardware kit.

Step 5: Compress the caliper piston

• The “piston” is the round part inside the caliper that pushes the pad.
• Check the brake fluid reservoir level under the hood before compressing.
• Use a brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty) to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
• If the reservoir starts to look too full, pause and remove a small amount of fluid (do not spill on paint).

Step 6: Lubricate and install the new pads

• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone-based) to pad “ears” where they touch the clips (not on pad friction material).
• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper

• Lower the caliper over the new pads by hand.
• Install the caliper slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.

Step 8: Repeat on the other rear wheel

• Perform Steps 3–7 on the opposite rear side with the same tools.
• Always replace pads on both sides.

Step 9: Reinstall wheels and lower the truck

• Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the truck off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench: Torque to 130 Nm (96 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Re-enable parking brake and seat the pads

• If you used an EPB service function, use the scan tool with EPB service function (specialty) to exit service mode and apply/release EPB once.
• With the engine off, pump the brake pedal slowly 8–12 times until it feels firm.
• Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and confirm the brake pedal feels normal (firm, not sinking).
• Test at low speed in a safe area: gentle stops first, then normal braking.
• If equipped with EPB, confirm it applies and releases normally and no warning lights stay on.
• Pad break-in: make 6–10 moderate stops from 30–40 mph, allowing cool-down between stops.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$150 (parts only)

You Save: $190-$300 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.