How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2019 Nissan Rogue (Complete DIY Guide)
Step-by-step rear brake pad replacement with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2019 Nissan Rogue (Complete DIY Guide)
Step-by-step rear brake pad replacement with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings
🔧 Rogue - Rear Brake Pad Replacement
You’ll be replacing the rear brake pads on your Rogue, which restore safe stopping and prevent damage to the brake rotors. This job is very doable at home if you go slowly and follow each step.
Difficulty Level: Beginner/Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5–2.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🦺 Always work on solid, level ground and use jack stands; never rely only on a floor jack.
- 🧯 Wear safety glasses and mechanic gloves to protect from dust and pinched fingers.
- 🔥 Brakes get very hot after driving; let everything cool at least 30 minutes before starting.
- 🧼 Brake dust can be harmful; avoid blowing it with air, use brake cleaner spray instead.
- 🔒 Keep the transmission in Park and set the parking brake until you are ready to remove each rear wheel, then release the parking brake so the rear brakes can move freely.
- 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job on your Rogue.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 🛠️ Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- 🛠️ Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, set of 2)
- 🛠️ Wheel chocks
- 🛠️ 21mm socket
- 🛠️ 1/2" drive breaker bar
- 🛠️ 1/2" drive torque wrench (10–150 ft-lbs range)
- 🛠️ 14mm socket
- 🛠️ 17mm socket
- 🛠️ 3/8" drive ratchet
- 🛠️ 3/8" drive torque wrench (5–75 ft-lbs range)
- 🛠️ C-clamp (6" or larger) or disc brake piston compressor tool
- 🛠️ Flathead screwdriver (medium size)
- 🛠️ Wire brush (small, steel bristles)
- 🛠️ Bungee cord or strong wire hanger
- 🛠️ Shop rags or paper towels
- 🛠️ Safety glasses
- 🛠️ Mechanic gloves
- 🛠️ Drip pan or cardboard
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- 🔩 Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1 (services both rear wheels)
- 🔩 Rear brake hardware kit (pad clips/shims) - Qty: 1
- 🔩 Brake cleaner spray (chlorinated or non-chlorinated) - Qty: 1–2 cans
- 🔩 High-temperature brake grease - Qty: 1 small tube
- 🔩 Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1 small tube (optional but helpful)
- 🔩 Shop towels - Qty: 1 pack
- 🔩 Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2 (optional, if worn or damaged)
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park the Rogue on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake while you get tools ready.
- 🛞 Place wheel chocks in front of and behind at least one front wheel so the vehicle cannot roll.
- 🧴 Pop the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir on the driver side near the firewall; wipe the cap clean so no dirt falls in later.
- 🔧 Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts about one turn with the 21mm socket and breaker bar while the vehicle is still on the ground.
- 🪧 Release the parking brake just before lifting the rear (so the rear calipers can move freely once in the air).
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and support the rear of the Rogue
- Position the floor jack (3-ton) under the rear center jacking point (rear subframe crossmember) and slowly lift until both rear wheels are off the ground.
- Place jack stands (3-ton) under the reinforced pinch welds or rear frame rails on both sides; slowly lower the vehicle onto the stands.
- Give the vehicle a gentle push to confirm it is stable.
- Never get under a car supported only by a jack.
Step 2: Remove rear wheels
- Use the 21mm socket and 1/2" ratchet to remove all lug nuts from one rear wheel.
- Remove the wheel and set it aside; repeat on the other rear wheel.
- If a wheel is stuck from rust, tap the tire sidewall with your hand or a rubber mallet to break it loose.
Step 3: Inspect and locate caliper hardware
- Look at the rear brake assembly: you’ll see the caliper (the part that squeezes the pads), the bracket behind it, and the rotor (the round disc).
- On the rear of the caliper, locate the two caliper slide pin bolts (top and bottom); on your Rogue they use a 14mm socket.
- If you plan to remove the bracket and rotor, also locate the two larger caliper bracket bolts behind it, which use a 17mm socket.
Step 4: Remove the rear caliper (first side)
- Use a 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to remove the lower caliper slide pin bolt, then the upper bolt.
- Carefully pull the caliper away from the rotor; if it is stuck, gently pry with a flathead screwdriver between the pad and rotor.
- Support the caliper with a bungee cord or wire from the suspension spring so it does not hang by the brake hose.
- Never let the caliper dangle from the rubber hose.
Step 5: Remove old pads and hardware
- Slide the inner and outer brake pads out of the bracket by hand; use a flathead screwdriver if needed to pry them loose.
- Remove the thin metal clips (pad hardware) from the caliper bracket by hand or with the flathead screwdriver.
- Note how the pads and clips are oriented; this helps you install the new ones correctly.
Step 6: Compress the caliper piston
- Check the piston face inside the caliper; on your Rogue it pushes straight back (no twisting required).
- Place one old brake pad against the piston surface inside the caliper.
- Position a C-clamp over the back of the caliper body and the old pad; slowly tighten the C-clamp to push the piston fully back into the caliper.
- Watch the brake fluid reservoir under the hood as you compress; if fluid gets close to the top, use a shop rag and small suction tool or syringe to remove a little fluid.
- Go slowly to avoid damaging the piston seal.
Step 7: Clean the bracket and install new hardware
- Spray the caliper bracket (especially where the pads slide) with brake cleaner over a drip pan.
- Use a wire brush to scrub rust and dirt off the areas where the pad clips sit.
- Dry with shop rags, then snap the new hardware clips from your hardware kit into the bracket by hand; they should sit flat and secure.
- Apply a very thin layer of high-temperature brake grease to the pad contact areas on the clips (where the pads will slide), using a small brush or your gloved finger.
- Do not get grease on the pad friction surfaces or rotor.
Step 8: Service the slide pins (recommended)
- Pull each caliper slide pin out of the bracket by hand; note which one goes top and bottom if they are different.
- Wipe old grease off the pins with shop rags.
- Apply fresh high-temperature brake grease to each pin, then slide them back into the rubber boots until they move smoothly.
- The pins should slide freely; if they are stuck or badly rusted, consider replacing them.
Step 9: Install new brake pads (first side)
- Identify inner vs outer pads; many Nissan pads have a small metal wear indicator tab that usually goes on the inner pad (check your new set’s instructions).
- Apply a thin film of brake grease to the pad backing plates where they touch the caliper and clips (not on the friction material).
- Slide the new outer pad into the hardware on the outside of the rotor by hand.
- Slide the new inner pad into the inside hardware by hand, making sure both pads sit flat and move slightly in the slides.
Step 10: Reinstall the caliper (first side)
- Remove the C-clamp and old pad from the caliper.
- Swing the caliper back over the new pads and onto the bracket; you may need to push the slide pins slightly to align the holes.
- Install the upper and lower caliper slide pin bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a 14mm socket and 3/8" torque wrench to tighten the slide pin bolts to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs).
Step 11: (Optional) Remove rotor and inspect/replace
- If you are replacing rotors or they are very grooved or rusty, remove the caliper bracket now.
- Use a 17mm socket and 1/2" ratchet to remove the two caliper bracket bolts from the rear of the knuckle.
- Pull the bracket off and set aside.
- Slide the rotor off the hub by hand; if stuck, tap around the hat area with a rubber mallet.
- Clean the hub surface with a wire brush and a little brake cleaner so the new rotor sits flat.
- Install the new rotor; you can use one lug nut with the 21mm socket to hold it tight while you reassemble.
- Reinstall the caliper bracket with the 17mm socket and tighten the bolts to 108 Nm (79 ft-lbs) using a 1/2" torque wrench.
Step 12: Repeat Steps 4–11 on the other rear side
- Move to the other rear wheel and follow the same steps to remove the caliper, pads, clean, install hardware, compress piston, install new pads, and reinstall the caliper.
- If you replace rotors, always replace both sides so braking stays even.
Step 13: Reinstall wheels and lower the Rogue
- Place each rear wheel back on the hub and hand-thread all lug nuts.
- Use the 21mm socket and 1/2" ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern while the vehicle is still on the stands (do not fully torque yet).
- Use the floor jack to lift the rear slightly, remove the jack stands, then lower the vehicle fully to the ground.
- With the wheels on the ground, use a 21mm socket and 1/2" torque wrench to torque all rear wheel lug nuts to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs) in a star pattern.
Step 14: Pump the brake pedal and check fluid level
- Sit in the driver’s seat and slowly pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm; this seats the pads against the rotors.
- Check the brake fluid reservoir; top off with the correct spec brake fluid if needed (DOT 3 or DOT 4 per the cap marking).
- Make sure the reservoir cap is tightened securely.
✅ After Repair
- 🧪 Start the engine and press the brake pedal; it should feel firm and not sink to the floor.
- 🚗 With the area clear, move the Rogue slowly forward and backward, lightly applying the brakes to ensure both rear brakes work and no grinding or strange noises occur.
- 👂 Listen for any scraping or metallic squeal; a light hiss is normal at first, but loud noises mean you should recheck pad and hardware installation.
- 🔥 New pads need to be “bedded in.” For the first 300–500 km, avoid hard stops unless necessary; do several gentle to moderate stops from 30–50 km/h to gradually build an even brake layer on the rotors.
- 🔍 After your first short drive, recheck behind the wheels for any fluid leaks and feel the wheels carefully (they may be warm but should not be extremely hot on one side only).
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250–$400 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60–$140 (parts only)
You Save: $190–$260 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0–1.5 hours.
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