🔧 Altima - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll be removing the rear wheels, retracting the electronic parking brake, sliding the calipers off, and installing new pads and hardware. This guide is written for a first-time DIYer, with simple language and safety checks along the way.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2–3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Always support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Your Altima uses an electronic parking brake (EPB) on the rear. The caliper pistons must be retracted using a scan tool EPB service mode to avoid damage.
• ⚠️ Work on a cool brake system. Hot rotors and calipers can burn you.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and gloves. Brake dust and cleaner are harmful to eyes and skin.
• ⚠️ Do one side at a time so you can look at the other side as a reference.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed; you can push the piston out.
• ⚠️ Battery remains connected, but ignition must be OFF when working around the EPB wiring.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, Qty: 2–4)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (10–150 ft-lbs range)
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive extension (3"–6")
• C-clamp (6" or larger)
• Disc brake caliper compression tool (specialty)
• EPB-capable scan tool (electronic parking brake service mode) (specialty)
• Flathead screwdriver (medium)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Wire brush (small, steel bristle)
• Bungee cord or mechanics wire
• Shop rags
• Brake cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1 (serves both rear wheels, replace in pairs)
• Rear brake pad hardware kit (anti-rattle clips/shims) - Qty: 1 set
• High-temperature brake grease - Qty: 1 small tube
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1–2 cans
• Caliper bracket bolts (rear, optional replacement) - Qty: 4

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park the Altima on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake, then turn ignition OFF.
• Loosen (do not remove) rear wheel lug nuts one turn using the 21mm socket and breaker bar while the car is still on the ground.
• Position wheel chocks in front of and behind at least one front wheel.
• Have your EPB-capable scan tool ready. It will be used to put the electronic parking brake into service/maintenance mode before removing the rear calipers.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and support the rear of the car

• Use the floor jack at the rear center jacking point (just ahead of the rear axle area, on the reinforced pinch weld/crossmember).
• Lift until both rear wheels are off the ground.
• Place jack stands under the rear pinch welds or approved support points, then slowly lower the car onto the stands.
• Verify stability by gently shaking the car; it should not move.

Step 2: Put the electronic parking brake in service mode

• Turn ignition to ON (engine not started).
• Connect the EPB-capable scan tool to the OBD-II port under the dash.
• Using the scan tool, navigate to Brakes > EPB > Service / Maintenance Mode or similar menu.
• Command the rear calipers into service mode; the tool will retract the EPB motors so the pistons can be pushed back.
• Turn ignition OFF when the scan tool confirms service mode is active. Do not apply parking brake now.

Step 3: Remove the rear wheels

• Use the 21mm socket and ratchet to remove all rear lug nuts.
• Remove both rear wheels and set them aside.

Step 4: Inspect caliper and rotor area

• Look at how the pads, clips, and anti-rattle springs are installed on one side. Take a quick phone photo.
• Check for torn rubber boots on the caliper slide pins or fluid leaks. If you see leaks, the caliper may need replacement, not just pads.

Step 5: Remove the rear caliper (first side)

• Locate the two caliper slide pin bolts on the back of the caliper.
• Use the 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to remove the upper and lower slide pin bolts.
• Carefully pull the caliper off the bracket. If it’s stuck, gently pry with a flathead screwdriver between pad and rotor.
• Support the caliper with a bungee cord hooked to the suspension so it does not hang by the brake hose.

Step 6: Remove old pads and hardware

• Slide the inner and outer pads out of the caliper bracket by hand.
• Use needle-nose pliers if needed to pull the old metal pad clips (hardware) out of the bracket.
• Spray the bracket area with brake cleaner and scrub the pad contact points with a wire brush until clean, bare metal shows.

Step 7: Retract the caliper piston

• Confirm EPB is already in service mode from Step 2.
• Position the old inner pad against the piston face.
• Use a C-clamp or disc brake caliper compression tool to slowly push the piston back into the caliper until it bottoms out.
• Stop if you feel sudden hard resistance or see fluid leaking; do not force it.

Step 8: Install new hardware and prepare pads

• Clip the new metal pad clips (hardware) into the cleaned caliper bracket by hand.
• Apply a very thin layer of high-temperature brake grease on the spots where the pad ears will slide in the clips.
• Apply a thin film of grease to the backing plate tabs of each new pad (not on the friction surface).

Step 9: Install new rear pads (first side)

• Slide the inner pad into the inner side of the bracket, making sure the ears sit inside the new clips.
• Install the outer pad on the opposite side of the rotor, again making sure it is fully seated in the clips.
• Check that both pads can move slightly in the bracket; they should not be jammed.

Step 10: Reinstall the caliper (first side)

• Lower the supported caliper over the new pads and rotor.
• Align the caliper with the bracket and thread the slide pin bolts in by hand.
• Use the 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to snug both slide pin bolts.
• Torque each slide pin bolt to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs) using the torque wrench and 14mm socket.

Step 11: Check and lube slide pins (optional but recommended)

• If you want to go further, remove each slide pin completely with the 14mm socket, wipe it with a shop rag, and apply fresh brake grease to the pin body.
• Reinsert the pins and torque again to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Repeat on the other rear side

• Repeat Steps 5–11 on the opposite rear wheel.
• Make sure pad orientation and hardware match the first side.

Step 13: Reinstall wheels

• Place the rear wheel back on the hub.
• Thread lug nuts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the 21mm socket and ratchet to snug lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 14: Lower the car and torque the wheels

• Use the floor jack to lift the rear slightly and remove the jack stands.
• Lower the car fully to the ground.
• Use the torque wrench and 21mm socket to torque each rear lug nut to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs) in a star pattern.

Step 15: Take EPB out of service mode

• Turn ignition to ON (engine not started).
• Reconnect your EPB-capable scan tool if needed and go to Brakes > EPB > Exit Service Mode / Initialize.
• Command the EPB to return to normal mode; wait for the scan tool confirmation.
• Turn ignition OFF after the process completes.

Step 16: Pump the brake pedal

• Sit in the driver’s seat and, with engine OFF, press the brake pedal slowly 10–15 times until it becomes firm. This seats the pads.

Step 17: Test the EPB

• Turn ignition to ON, then apply the electronic parking brake using the switch.
• Listen and feel for the EPB motors engaging at the rear.
• Release the EPB and confirm there are no warning lights on the dash.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and gently press the brake pedal to confirm it feels firm and consistent.
• With the car in gear and EPB off, roll slowly in a safe area and test the brakes at low speed.
• Perform several gentle stops from 20–30 km/h to help the pads “bed in.”
• For the first 300–500 km, avoid very hard stops unless necessary to allow proper pad and rotor break-in.
• Check around the rear wheels for any unusual smells, noises, or brake warning lights after your first drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $280–$420 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $80–$150 (parts only, assuming you rent/borrow an EPB-capable scan tool)

You Save: $200–$300 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5–2.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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