How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2018 Toyota Prius (EPB Service Mode Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, EPB maintenance mode tips, and key torque specs for 2010, 2011
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2018 Toyota Prius (EPB Service Mode Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, EPB maintenance mode tips, and key torque specs for 2010, 2011
🔧 Prius - Rear Brake Pad Replacement
Replacing the rear brake pads on your Prius involves lifting the rear, removing the rear wheels, swinging the rear calipers up, swapping pads/hardware, and compressing the caliper pistons before reassembly. On some Prius trims, you must put the Electronic Parking Brake (EPB) into service/maintenance mode so the parking brake motor doesn’t fight you.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on level ground and support your Prius on jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
- ⚠️ Keep the car OFF and keep the key fob at least 15+ feet away so the brake system doesn’t wake up.
- ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed (it can push the piston out).
- ⚠️ If your Prius has an electronic parking brake, place it in service/maintenance mode before pushing pistons back.
- ⚠️ Avoid opening the driver door repeatedly during the job; the brake system can run self-checks.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not typically required for pads, but keep the vehicle fully powered down.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 21mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 17mm socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range)
- C-clamp brake piston compressor
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Bungee cord
- Wire brush
- Brake cleaner spray
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
- Bidirectional scan tool with EPB service mode (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Rear brake pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
- Silicone brake grease - Qty: 1
- Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to P, and chock the front wheels with wheel chocks.
- Confirm what parking brake you have:
- If you have an EPB switch (button/switch), you must use EPB service mode.
- If you have a foot pedal parking brake, you can proceed normally.
- If you have EPB: connect a bidirectional scan tool (a scanner that can command vehicle modules) and select EPB > Maintenance/Service Mode before you start.
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and secure the rear
- Use a floor jack to lift the rear at the proper jacking point, then support with jack stands under the rear support points.
- Remove both rear wheels using a 21mm socket and ratchet.
- When reinstalling wheels later: Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.
Step 2: Put the parking brake in the correct state
- If equipped with EPB: use a bidirectional scan tool with EPB service mode (specialty) to command EPB Maintenance/Service Mode.
- If equipped with a foot pedal parking brake: make sure the parking brake is fully released.
- Service mode prevents motor damage.
Step 3: Remove the caliper (do not disconnect the brake hose)
- Turn the steering wheel is not needed for the rear; position yourself for access.
- Remove the rear caliper slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
- Carefully lift the caliper off the bracket and suspend it with a bungee cord so it doesn’t hang by the hose.
- On reassembly: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench on the slide pin bolts.
Step 4: Remove old pads and hardware
- Pull the inner and outer pads out by hand; use a flat-blade screwdriver gently if they’re stuck.
- Remove the pad clips/hardware from the bracket (usually snaps out); use a flat-blade screwdriver if needed.
- Clean the bracket pad-contact areas using brake cleaner spray and a wire brush.
Step 5: Compress the caliper piston
- Place an old pad against the piston face, then use a C-clamp brake piston compressor to push the piston straight back into the caliper.
- Go slowly and keep it straight so the rubber boot doesn’t twist.
- Check brake fluid level as you compress.
Step 6: Install new hardware and pads
- Install new pad clips/hardware into the bracket by hand (press until fully seated).
- Apply a thin layer of silicone brake grease to pad “ears” where they slide on the clips (do not get grease on pad friction material).
- Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.
Step 7: Reinstall caliper and torque fasteners
- Lower the caliper over the new pads.
- Install the slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet, then final tighten with a torque wrench.
- Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) for the slide pin bolts.
Step 8: Repeat on the other side
- Repeat Steps 3–7 on the opposite rear wheel.
- Do both sides so braking stays even.
Step 9: Reinstall wheels and lower the car
- Install wheels and hand-thread lug nuts first.
- Snug lug nuts with a 21mm socket and ratchet.
- Lower the car, then Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs) in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
✅ After Repair
- Before moving: press the brake pedal slowly 10–15 times until it feels firm.
- If equipped with EPB: use the bidirectional scan tool to exit EPB Maintenance/Service Mode, then apply/release EPB to confirm normal operation.
- Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
- Test drive at low speed first. Confirm no grinding and the car stops straight.
- Brake pad break-in: make several gentle stops from 25–35 mph, allowing cool-down between stops.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $50-$140 (parts only)
You Save: $110-$400 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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