🔧 BRZ - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the rear brake pads restores safe stopping power and prevents rotor damage from worn pads. On your BRZ, the rear caliper is a single-piston design, so you’ll retract the piston, swap pads, and reassemble with proper torque.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the car with jack stands before removing any wheel.
• ⚠️ Release the parking brake before starting; the rear parking brake acts on the rear brakes and can prevent removal.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is off the rotor.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ If brake fluid rises near the reservoir max line when compressing pistons, remove a little with a syringe to prevent overflow.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)
• C-clamp (6")
• Flathead screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Brake parts cleaner
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
• High-temperature silicone brake grease - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the transmission in gear, and chock the front wheels.
• Release the parking brake fully before lifting the rear.
• Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts slightly with a 19mm socket before the wheels are off the ground.
• Open the hood and check the brake fluid level in the reservoir; be ready in case it rises when you compress the caliper piston.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Use a floor jack to lift the rear at the proper jack point, then set the car on jack stands.
• Confirm the car is stable before you work underneath or pull on bolts.

Step 2: Remove the rear wheels

• Remove the lug nuts using a 19mm socket and ratchet, then remove both rear wheels.
• Doing both sides helps you compare parts.

Step 3: Locate the caliper and remove the slide pin bolts

• Find the rear brake caliper (it “clamps” the rotor).
• Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• If the slide pin tries to spin, hold it steady with needle-nose pliers while you loosen the bolt.

Step 4: Lift the caliper off and support it

• Carefully lift the caliper off the rotor. Use a flathead screwdriver gently if you need a little help prying.
• Hang the caliper from the suspension using a bungee cord.
• Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose.

Step 5: Remove old pads and hardware

• Pull the old pads out of the bracket by hand.
• Remove the pad hardware clips (the thin metal “rails”) from the bracket.
• Clean the bracket pad lands (where the clips sit) using a wire brush and brake parts cleaner.

Step 6: Retract the caliper piston

• Place one old pad against the piston face, then slowly compress the piston using a C-clamp (6").
• A C-clamp is a screw clamp that pushes the piston back in smoothly.
• Go slow and watch the brake fluid reservoir level as the piston retracts.

Step 7: Install new hardware clips and grease contact points

• Install the new hardware clips into the bracket by hand.
• Apply a very thin film of high-temperature silicone brake grease where the pad ears slide on the clips.
• Do not get grease on the pad friction material or rotor surface.

Step 8: Install the new rear pads

• Slide the new pads into the bracket in the same orientation as the originals.
• Make sure the pads move freely; if they bind, re-check clip seating and clean the bracket lands again.

Step 9: Reinstall the caliper and torque the slide pin bolts

• Lower the caliper back over the new pads.
• Install the slide pin bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading, then tighten with a 14mm socket.
• Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.

Step 10: Repeat on the other rear side

• Repeat Steps 3–9 on the opposite rear wheel.
• Replace rear pads as a pair (left and right).

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the car using the floor jack, then torque the lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench.
• Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine off, press the brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the new pads).
• Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
• Apply and release the parking brake to confirm normal operation.
• Test drive at low speed first; confirm normal braking with no pulling or grinding.
• Bed-in pads gently for best results. Do 6-10 moderate stops from 30–10 mph, allowing short cool-down between stops.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$150 (parts only)

You Save: $190-$300 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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