🔧 Armada - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the rear brake pads on your Armada restores safe stopping power and prevents rotor damage when the pads get thin. You’ll remove the rear caliper, swap the pads and hardware, compress the caliper piston, then torque everything back to spec.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on level ground and chock the front wheels.
• 🛑 Release the parking brake before starting (rear calipers won’t come off correctly if it’s applied).
• 🛑 Support the truck with jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
• 🛑 Don’t let the caliper hang by the brake hose.
• 🛑 Avoid breathing brake dust; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• 🛑 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-100 ft-lbs)
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (50-150 ft-lbs)
• 14mm socket
• 19mm socket
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• C-clamp brake piston compressor
• Caliper hanger hook (specialty)
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on a flat surface, shift to Park, and fully release the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks in front of both front tires.
• Loosen the rear lug nuts 1/2 turn before lifting (use a 21mm socket and breaker bar).
• Open the hood and check the brake fluid level; if it’s near “MAX,” be ready to remove a little later (fluid rises when you compress pistons).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the rear

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the rear at a solid lift point, then set the frame on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Confirm the truck is stable before removing any wheels.

Step 2: Remove the rear wheels

• Remove the lug nuts using a 21mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Set wheels aside.

Step 3: Locate the rear caliper and inspect

• Look at the rear caliper, pads, and rotor.
• Take a quick photo for reference.

Step 4: Remove the caliper slide bolts

• Use a 14mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the 2 caliper slide bolts.
• If the slide pin spins, hold it carefully and continue loosening with the same 14mm socket.

Step 5: Hang the caliper (do not stress the hose)

• Lift the caliper off the bracket.
• Support it using a caliper hanger hook (specialty). (This is a metal hook that holds the caliper so the brake hose isn’t stretched.)

Step 6: Remove old pads and hardware

• Pull the inner and outer pads out of the bracket by hand.
• Use a flat-blade screwdriver to carefully pry off the old pad clips (abutment clips) from the bracket.

Step 7: Clean the bracket and pad contact points

• Spray the area with brake cleaner spray.
• Use a wire brush to clean rust where the pad clips sit.
• Wipe clean and let it dry.

Step 8: Install new hardware clips and grease contact points

• Snap the new clips from the rear brake pad hardware kit into the bracket by hand.
• Apply a very thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone) on the clip surfaces where the pad “ears” slide.
• Keep grease off rotor and pad friction.

Step 9: Compress the caliper piston

• Before compressing, check the brake fluid reservoir under the hood.
• Use a C-clamp brake piston compressor to slowly push the piston straight back into the caliper.
• Go slowly so you don’t overflow the reservoir.

Step 10: Install the new pads

• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.
• Make sure the pads move freely in the clips (they should slide, not bind).

Step 11: Reinstall the caliper and torque bolts

• Set the caliper back over the new pads.
• Install the slide bolts by hand first (to avoid cross-threading), then tighten with a 14mm socket.
• Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs) using a 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-100 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Repeat on the other rear side

• Do the same procedure on the opposite rear wheel.
• Always replace pads in pairs.

Step 13: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels and snug the lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
• Lower the truck to the ground with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Torque to 133 Nm (98 ft-lbs) in a star pattern using a 1/2" drive torque wrench (50-150 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Press the brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the new pads).
• Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
• With the engine running, do a low-speed test stop in a safe area.
• Pad break-in: make 6-10 moderate stops from ~30 mph down to ~5 mph, allowing short cool-down between stops.
• Re-check for leaks, odd noises, or a pulling feeling.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $300-$550 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$160 (parts only)

You Save: $140-$490 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.