How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2018 Nissan Altima
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2024, 2025
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2018 Nissan Altima
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2024, 2025
🔧 Altima - Rear Brake Pad Replacement
This repair replaces the rear brake pads on your Altima. Rear pads wear down over time and should be replaced before they get too thin, make noise, or damage the rotors.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface and never rely on a jack alone.
- ⚠️ Use jack stands before putting any part of your body near or under the vehicle.
- ⚠️ The rear brakes may be hot if the car was recently driven. Let them cool first.
- ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful. Do not blow it with compressed air; use brake cleaner instead.
- ⚠️ Your Altima uses a mechanical parking brake at the rear calipers. Make sure the parking brake is fully released before removing the calipers.
- ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while the caliper is removed.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 21mm lug nut socket
- Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
- Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
- 14mm socket
- Ratchet 3/8-inch drive
- Open-end wrench 17mm
- Rear disc brake piston wind-back tool (specialty)
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Brake caliper hanger hook
- Wire brush
- Brake cleaner spray
- Shop towels
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Rear brake hardware kit - Qty: 1
- Brake lubricant - Qty: 1
- Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Altima on level ground.
- Shift to Park and turn the ignition off.
- Release the parking brake fully.
- Place wheel chocks in front of the front wheels.
- Open the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir. If it is very full, remove a small amount with a clean suction tool to prevent overflow when pushing the pistons back.
- A wind-back tool turns and pushes the rear brake piston into the caliper at the same time.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the Rear Lug Nuts
- Use a 21mm lug nut socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen the rear wheel lug nuts about 1/2 turn.
- Do this while the tires are still on the ground so the wheels do not spin.
- Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
Step 2: Lift and Support the Rear of the Car
- Use a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) at the proper rear lift point.
- Raise the rear of your Altima high enough to remove both rear wheels.
- Place jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) under the rear support points.
- Lower the car gently onto the jack stands.
- Give the car a light shake to make sure it is stable.
Step 3: Remove the Rear Wheels
- Use the 21mm lug nut socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to remove the loosened lug nuts.
- Remove both rear wheels and set them flat on the ground.
- Slide one wheel under the side of the vehicle as a backup safety measure.
Step 4: Remove the Rear Caliper Lower and Upper Bolts
- Look at the back side of the rear brake caliper.
- Use a 14mm socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to remove the caliper slide pin bolts.
- If the slide pin spins, hold it with an open-end wrench 17mm while removing the bolt with the 14mm socket.
- A slide pin is the smooth pin that lets the caliper move side-to-side as the pads wear.
Step 5: Lift the Caliper Off the Bracket
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver gently between the caliper and pad if the caliper is tight.
- Lift the caliper off the brake pads and rotor.
- Hang the caliper from the suspension using a brake caliper hanger hook.
- Do not let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose.
Step 6: Remove the Old Brake Pads and Hardware
- Pull the old rear brake pads out of the caliper bracket by hand.
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver if a pad is stuck.
- Remove the old metal pad clips from the bracket.
- These clips are called abutment clips; they help the pads slide smoothly and quietly.
Step 7: Clean the Caliper Bracket
- Use a wire brush to clean rust and dirt from the areas where the pad clips sit.
- Spray the area with brake cleaner spray.
- Wipe with shop towels.
- Clean sliding surfaces prevent brake noise.
Step 8: Install the New Hardware
- Install the new clips from the rear brake hardware kit into the caliper bracket by hand.
- Make sure each clip sits fully flat in the bracket.
- Apply a very thin layer of brake lubricant to the pad contact points on the clips.
- Do not put lubricant on the rotor or pad friction surface.
Step 9: Wind Back the Rear Caliper Piston
- Use the rear disc brake piston wind-back tool (specialty) to turn and push the caliper piston inward.
- Turn the piston clockwise while applying inward pressure until it is fully seated.
- Watch the brake fluid reservoir while doing this. Use shop towels if fluid rises near the top.
- Line up the piston face grooves so they match the locating pin on the inner brake pad.
Step 10: Install the New Brake Pads
- Install the new rear pads into the caliper bracket by hand.
- Make sure the pad with the wear indicator is installed in the same position as the original pad.
- Slide each pad back and forth lightly to confirm it moves freely in the new clips.
- Pads should slide, not jam.
Step 11: Reinstall the Rear Caliper
- Remove the caliper from the brake caliper hanger hook.
- Lower the caliper over the new brake pads.
- If it does not fit, use the rear disc brake piston wind-back tool (specialty) to push the piston in farther.
- Start both caliper bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench 3/8-inch drive to tighten the rear caliper slide pin bolts to Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).
Step 12: Repeat on the Other Side
- Repeat Steps 4 through 11 on the other rear brake.
- Use the same 14mm socket, 17mm open-end wrench, flat-blade screwdriver, wire brush, and rear disc brake piston wind-back tool (specialty).
- Rear brake pads should always be replaced in pairs.
Step 13: Reinstall the Rear Wheels
- Put both rear wheels back on by hand.
- Thread the lug nuts by hand first.
- Use a 21mm lug nut socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
Step 14: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts
- Use the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to lift the rear slightly off the jack stands.
- Remove the jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum).
- Lower the vehicle fully to the ground.
- Use a 21mm lug nut socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).
Step 15: Pump the Brake Pedal
- Sit in the driver seat.
- Press the brake pedal slowly several times until it feels firm.
- This moves the caliper pistons back out against the new pads.
- Do not drive until the pedal feels firm.
✅ After Repair
- Check the brake fluid level and make sure it is between the MIN and MAX marks.
- Start the car and press the brake pedal again. It should feel firm, not soft or sinking.
- Test the parking brake before driving normally.
- Drive slowly in a safe area and make several gentle stops.
- Avoid hard braking for the first 200 miles unless needed for safety.
- If you hear grinding, feel pulling, or the pedal stays soft, stop driving and recheck the work.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $220-$380 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $45-$120 (parts only)
You Save: $175-$260 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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