🔧 Charger - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll be removing the rear wheels, swinging the rear calipers out of the way, swapping the pads, then compressing the caliper pistons so everything fits back together. This matters because worn pads reduce stopping power and can damage the rotors if they go too thin.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and use jack stands before going under the car.
• ⚠️ Keep the parking brake released while servicing the rear brakes.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.
• ⚠️ Brake dust and cleaner are harmful—wear safety glasses and gloves.
• ⚠️ Watch the brake fluid reservoir level when compressing pistons; it can overflow.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• Breaker bar (1/2-inch drive)
• Torque wrench (1/2-inch drive)
• Ratchet (3/8-inch drive)
• 13mm socket
• 15mm wrench
• 18mm socket
• C-clamp (6-inch)
• Brake caliper hanger hook (specialty)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Catch pan
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
• Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 1
• Silicone brake lubricant - Qty: 1
• DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 (as needed)
• Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2 (optional, if worn or warped)

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧰 Park on level ground, shift to P, and place wheel chocks at the front wheels.
• 🧰 Make sure the parking brake is fully released (rear brakes won’t come apart correctly if it’s applied).
• 🧰 Pop the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; you’ll re-check the level after compressing pistons.
• 🧰 Loosen rear lug nuts 1/2 turn with a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the rear

• Lift the rear using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper rear lift point.
• Set the car onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and gently shake the vehicle to confirm it’s stable.
• Never rely on the jack alone.

Step 2: Remove the rear wheels

• Remove lug nuts with a 21mm socket and breaker bar (1/2-inch drive).
• Remove the wheels and set them aside.

Step 3: Identify your rear caliper style (standard vs Brembo)

• If your rear caliper is a typical floating caliper with 2 slider-pin bolts on the back, follow the steps below as written.
• If your rear caliper says “Brembo” and looks like a fixed multi-piston caliper, you’ll still remove pads, but hardware/retainer style differs—stop here and tell me what you see so I can give the exact Brembo steps.

Step 4: Remove the caliper (floating caliper setup)

• Turn the steering wheel as needed for access and position yourself at the rear caliper.
• Remove the two caliper slider bolts using a 13mm socket while holding the slider pin flats with a 15mm wrench.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it with a brake caliper hanger hook (specialty).
• Do not let the caliper hang by the hose.

Step 5: Remove old pads and hardware

• Slide the inner and outer pads out by hand; use a flathead screwdriver gently if they’re stuck.
• Remove the pad abutment clips (hardware) from the bracket.
• Clean the pad “shelves” on the bracket with a wire brush so the new pads can slide freely.

Step 6: Compress the caliper piston

• Check the brake fluid reservoir under the hood; if it’s near “MAX,” siphon a little into a catch pan (do not spill on paint).
• Use a C-clamp (6-inch) to slowly press the caliper piston back into the caliper.
• A torque wrench is a tool that tightens bolts to an exact spec so parts don’t loosen or break.
• Compress slowly to avoid seal damage.

Step 7: Lubricate contact points and install new hardware

• Install new abutment clips onto the bracket.
• Apply a thin film of silicone brake lubricant to pad ears where they touch the clips (do not get lube on pad friction material or rotor).
• Spray the bracket area with brake parts cleaner if needed and let it dry.

Step 8: Install the new pads

• Install the inner and outer pads into the bracket.
• Make sure pads slide smoothly; if they bind, remove and re-clean with a wire brush.

Step 9: Reinstall the caliper

• Place the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the slider bolts using a 13mm socket while holding the slider with a 15mm wrench.
• Torque to 23 Nm (17 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench (1/2-inch drive).

Step 10: If you removed the caliper bracket (only if replacing rotors)

• Remove bracket bolts using an 18mm socket and breaker bar (1/2-inch drive).
• Reinstall bracket bolts and Torque to 125 Nm (92 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench (1/2-inch drive).

Step 11: Reinstall wheels

• Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern with a 21mm socket and torque wrench (1/2-inch drive): Torque to 176 Nm (130 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Restore pedal feel

• With the car on the ground, pump the brake pedal slowly 8–12 times until it feels firm.
• Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Start the engine and confirm the brake pedal remains firm.
• ✅ Test at low speed first; confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• ✅ Bed-in (break-in) the pads: make 6–10 moderate stops from ~35 mph to ~5 mph, allowing a short cool-down between stops.
• ✅ Re-check lug nut torque after 25–50 miles with a 21mm socket and torque wrench (1/2-inch drive).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$500 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$180 (parts only)

You Save: $170-$320 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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