🔧 Rear Brake Pads - Replacement

The rear pads on your Silverado can be replaced by removing the wheel, taking the caliper off, and swapping in the new pads. On this truck, the rear caliper piston must be pushed back in before the new pads will fit, so take your time and keep the brake fluid level in mind.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Work on level ground and chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
• Use jack stands; never rely on the floor jack alone.
• Keep fingers clear when compressing the caliper piston. The caliper can move suddenly.
• Do not press the brake pedal with the caliper removed.
• Make sure the parking brake is fully released before removing the rear calipers.
• If the brake fluid reservoir is near the top, remove a small amount before pushing the pistons back.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 18mm socket
• 15mm socket
• Torque wrench
• Brake caliper compression tool (specialty)
• Flat blade screwdriver
• Bungee cord or caliper hanger
• Bristle brush
• Brake cleaner
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Brake hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake grease - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on a level surface and set the parking brake while you loosen the lug nuts, then release it before removing the rear wheels.
• Place wheel chocks in front of the front tires.
• Open the hood and check the brake fluid level before compressing the pistons.
• If the truck has been driven recently, let the brakes cool first.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts

• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar or ratchet to loosen the lug nuts on both rear wheels about one turn each.
• Do this before lifting the truck.

Step 2: Lift and support the rear

• Use a floor jack under the rear axle or approved lift point to raise the truck.
• Support it with jack stands under the axle or frame, then lower the truck onto the stands.
• Remove both rear wheels with the 21mm socket.

Step 3: Remove the caliper

• Use a 15mm socket to remove the caliper guide pin bolts.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket carefully.
• Hang the caliper with a bungee cord or caliper hanger. Do not let it dangle by the hose.

Step 4: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Pull the old pads out of the bracket.
• Remove the pad clips and hardware with a flat blade screwdriver.
• Use a bristle brush and brake cleaner to clean the pad contact points.
• Clean metal contact points help prevent squeaks.

Step 5: Compress the caliper piston

• Use a brake caliper compression tool (specialty) to push the piston fully back into the caliper.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir while doing this so it does not overflow.
• If the piston resists, make sure the parking brake is fully released and the caliper is aligned squarely.

Step 6: Install the new hardware and pads

• Install the new pad clips and hardware in the bracket.
• Apply a thin layer of brake grease to the pad ears and contact points only.
• Install the new rear brake pads in the same orientation as the old ones.
• Make sure the pads sit fully in the bracket.

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper

• Slide the caliper back over the new pads.
• Install the guide pin bolts by hand first, then tighten with a 15mm socket.
• Torque to 31 Nm (23 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reinstall the wheel

• Put the wheel back on and start the lug nuts by hand.
• Snug them in a crisscross pattern with the 21mm socket.
• Lower the truck, then final torque the lug nuts to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Repeat on the other side

• Replace the pads on the opposite rear wheel the same way.
• Replace pads in pairs so braking stays even.

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✅ After Repair

• Press the brake pedal slowly several times until it feels firm.
• Check the brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
• Start the truck and test the brakes at low speed in a safe area.
• Expect a short bedding-in period. Make several smooth stops without overheating the brakes.
• Listen for rubbing or grinding. Recheck your work if you hear anything unusual.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$140 (parts only)

You Save: $190-$310 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.