🔧 Traverse - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the rear brake pads on your Traverse means removing the rear wheels, lifting the caliper off the rotor, swapping the pads and hardware, then reassembling with the correct torque. Worn pads reduce braking performance and can damage the rotors if they wear down too far.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
• ⚠️ Support the SUV with jack stands before removing any wheels.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while the caliper is off the rotor.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is unhealthy—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Keep brake fluid off paint; it can damage the finish.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 13mm socket
• 18mm socket
• Torque wrench (20–200 ft-lbs range)
• C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Wire hook or bungee cord
• Brake parts cleaner
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on a flat surface, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Chock both front wheels using wheel chocks.
• Crack the rear lug nuts loose 1/2 turn before lifting using a 19mm socket and breaker bar.
• Open the hood and check the brake fluid level; if it’s near MAX, be ready to remove a little with a clean towel if it rises when you compress the pistons.
• Take a photo of pad placement first.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the rear wheels

• Lift the rear using a floor jack at the proper rear lift point.
• Place jack stands under the rear support points and lower onto the stands.
• Remove the lug nuts using a 19mm socket and ratchet, then remove both rear wheels.

Step 2: Locate the caliper and remove the caliper slide bolts

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed since you’re working on the rear.
• On the back of the rear caliper, remove the two slide (guide) bolts using a 13mm socket and ratchet.
• If the caliper wants to rotate, hold it steady by hand while loosening.

Step 3: Lift off and support the caliper

• Lift the caliper off the rotor. Use a flat-blade screwdriver gently if it’s stuck.
• Hang the caliper from the suspension using a wire hook or bungee cord.
• Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose.

Step 4: Remove old pads and hardware

• Slide the inner and outer pads out by hand.
• Remove the pad “clips” (abutment hardware) from the caliper bracket using a flat-blade screwdriver.
• Spray the bracket pad contact areas with brake parts cleaner and wipe with shop towels.

Step 5: Compress the caliper piston

• Place the old inner pad against the piston face.
• Use a C-clamp (6" minimum) to slowly press the piston back into the caliper.
• Go slow and watch the brake fluid reservoir under the hood so it doesn’t overflow.
• Slow compression helps protect the seals.

Step 6: Install new hardware and new pads

• Install the new pad clips from the rear brake pad hardware kit onto the bracket by hand.
• Apply a thin layer of brake caliper grease (silicone) where the pad ears slide on the clips.
• Install the new pads into the bracket in the same orientation as removed.

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper and torque fasteners

• Lower the caliper back over the new pads by hand.
• Install the caliper slide bolts using a 13mm socket and ratchet.
• Tighten the slide bolts using a torque wrench: Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Snug the lugs using a 19mm socket and ratchet in a star pattern.
• Lower the SUV off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Final-tighten lug nuts using a torque wrench: Torque to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs) in a star pattern.

Step 9: Seat the pads before driving

• With the vehicle on the ground, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm.
• Check the brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
• Do a slow test roll and gentle stop in your driveway to confirm normal pedal feel.

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✅ After Repair

• Do 8–10 moderate stops from 30–35 mph with cool-down time between stops.
• Listen for grinding or loud squealing; a light “new pad” smell is normal at first.
• Recheck for any brake fluid leaks and confirm the lug nuts are still torqued correctly after 25–50 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$650 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$160 (parts only)

You Save: $190-$590 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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