🔧 Highlander - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

This job replaces the rear disc brake pads on your Highlander. Rear pads wear down over time and should be replaced before the metal backing contacts the rotor.

Difficulty Level: Beginner to Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a cool brake system. Hot rotors and calipers can burn you.
• ⚠️ Support your Highlander with jack stands before working under or near the vehicle. Never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Replace rear brake pads in pairs, left and right sides together.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed.
• ⚠️ Brake dust can be harmful. Do not blow it with compressed air.
• ⚠️ Your Highlander uses a foot-operated parking brake with rear drum-in-hat parking brake shoes inside the rear rotors, not an electronic parking brake. EPB scan-tool retraction is not required.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 21mm lug nut socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm wrench
• 3/8-inch ratchet
• Torque wrench rated 20-100 ft-lbs
• Torque wrench rated 50-150 ft-lbs
• Disc brake pad spreader tool (specialty)
• C-clamp 6-inch
• Flat blade screwdriver
• Needle nose pliers
• Brake caliper hanger hook
• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Brake cleaner aerosol
• Shop towels
• Wire brush

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Disc brake caliper grease - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner aerosol - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Highlander on flat, solid ground.
• Shift to Park and turn the engine off.
• Do not set the parking brake, because it acts on the rear brakes.
• Place wheel chocks in front of and behind the front wheels. Wheel chocks are wedges that stop the vehicle from rolling.
• Open the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir. If it is very full, remove a small amount with a clean suction tool before compressing the caliper piston.
• Leave the brake fluid reservoir cap loosely installed while compressing the pistons.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Rear Wheel Lug Nuts

• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and breaker bar or ratchet to loosen each rear wheel lug nut about 1/2 turn.
• Do this before lifting the vehicle so the wheels do not spin.
• Loosen only. Do not remove yet.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Rear of the Highlander

• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum at the rear center jacking point or approved rear lift point.
• Raise the rear of your Highlander high enough for both rear wheels to clear the ground.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the approved rear support points.
• Slowly lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.
• Lightly shake the vehicle by hand to confirm it is stable.

Step 3: Remove the Rear Wheels

• Use the 21mm lug nut socket to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove both rear wheels and set them flat on the ground.
• Keep the lug nuts together so none are lost.

Step 4: Inspect the Brake Assembly

• Put on safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
• Look at the rear caliper, pads, rotor, and rubber brake hose.
• Use brake cleaner aerosol and shop towels to clean heavy dust around the caliper area.
• Check for brake fluid leaks, torn caliper slide pin boots, or deep rotor grooves.
• If the rotor is deeply grooved, cracked, or below minimum thickness, replace or machine the rotor before installing new pads.

Step 5: Remove the Lower Caliper Slide Bolt

• Use a 14mm socket on the lower caliper slide bolt.
• If the slide pin spins, hold the slide pin with a 17mm wrench while loosening the bolt with the 14mm socket.
• A slide pin is the smooth pin that lets the caliper move side to side as the pads wear.
• Remove the lower bolt and set it aside.

Step 6: Swing the Caliper Up

• Use your hand to carefully swing the caliper upward on the upper slide pin.
• If it sticks, gently use a flat blade screwdriver between the caliper and pad to help free it.
• Support the caliper with a brake caliper hanger hook.
• Do not let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose.

Step 7: Remove the Old Rear Brake Pads

• Pull the inner and outer pads straight out of the caliper bracket by hand.
• If they are stuck, use a flat blade screwdriver to gently pry them out.
• Notice where the wear indicator clip is located before removal. The wear indicator is the small metal tab that squeals when pads are worn.
• Use needle nose pliers if needed to remove small clips from the old pads.

Step 8: Remove and Replace the Pad Hardware

• Use a flat blade screwdriver to pop the old stainless pad support clips out of the caliper bracket.
• Use a wire brush to clean the bracket areas where the clips sit.
• Spray the area with brake cleaner aerosol and wipe dry with shop towels.
• Install the new clips from the rear brake pad hardware kit by hand until fully seated.
• Clean clips help prevent squeaks.

Step 9: Lubricate Pad Contact Points

• Apply a thin layer of disc brake caliper grease to the new hardware where the pad ears slide.
• Do not put grease on the brake pad friction material or rotor face.
• Friction material is the rough pad surface that presses against the rotor.

Step 10: Compress the Rear Caliper Piston

• Place an old brake pad against the caliper piston.
• Use a disc brake pad spreader tool (specialty) or C-clamp 6-inch to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir under the hood while compressing the piston.
• If fluid rises near the top, remove a small amount before continuing.
• The rear caliper piston on your Highlander presses straight in; it does not need to be screwed in.

Step 11: Install the New Rear Brake Pads

• Install the new inner and outer rear pads into the caliper bracket by hand.
• Make sure the pad ears sit fully in the new hardware clips.
• If the pad set includes a wear indicator, place it in the same position as the original pad.
• The pads should slide with light hand pressure. If they bind, remove them and recheck the hardware seating.

Step 12: Lower the Caliper Over the New Pads

• Remove the brake caliper hanger hook.
• Carefully swing the caliper down over the new pads by hand.
• If the caliper will not fit, use the disc brake pad spreader tool (specialty) or C-clamp 6-inch to compress the piston a little more.
• Do not force the caliper with a hammer.

Step 13: Reinstall the Lower Caliper Slide Bolt

• Thread the lower caliper slide bolt in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 17mm wrench to hold the slide pin if it turns.
• Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench rated 20-100 ft-lbs to tighten the caliper slide bolt.
• Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Repeat on the Other Rear Side

• Repeat Steps 4 through 13 on the opposite rear wheel.
• Use the same 14mm socket, 17mm wrench, flat blade screwdriver, and disc brake pad spreader tool (specialty).
• Always replace pads on both rear sides during the same repair.

Step 15: Reinstall the Rear Wheels

• Place each rear wheel back onto the hub by hand.
• Thread the lug nuts on by hand first.
• Use the 21mm lug nut socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Do not fully torque them while the wheels are in the air.

Step 16: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to raise the rear slightly and remove the jack stands.
• Lower your Highlander until the tires touch the ground.
• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and torque wrench rated 50-150 ft-lbs to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

Step 17: Pump the Brake Pedal

• Sit in the driver seat and press the brake pedal slowly several times.
• The pedal may go low at first, then become firm.
• Do not drive until the brake pedal feels firm.
• Check the brake fluid level and top off only if needed with the correct brake fluid listed on the reservoir cap.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Start your Highlander and press the brake pedal again. Confirm the pedal stays firm.
• ✅ Check behind both rear wheels for leaks or loose parts.
• ✅ Perform a slow test stop in a safe area before normal driving.
• ✅ Bed in the new pads by making several gentle stops from about 30 mph, allowing time for the brakes to cool between stops.
• ✅ Avoid hard braking for the first 100-200 miles unless needed for safety.
• ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after your first short drive: Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $130-$330 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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