🔧 TITAN - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll be removing the rear wheels, swinging the rear calipers up/off, swapping in new pads (and hardware), then reassembling everything with the correct torque. Replacing pads on time protects your rotors and keeps braking smooth and safe.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5–3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support your TITAN with jack stands; never rely on a jack.
• ⚠️ Chock the front wheels and release the parking brake before starting (rear calipers won’t come off easily if it’s applied).
• ⚠️ Brake dust is hazardous—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Don’t let the caliper hang by the brake hose; always support it.
• ⚠️ Watch the brake fluid level when compressing pistons to prevent overflow.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (30–200 ft-lbs range)
• 14mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 6" extension (3/8")
• C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Flat blade screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Bungee cord
• Brake cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake lubricant (silicone brake grease) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and chock the front wheels.
• Make sure the parking brake is released (your TITAN uses a mechanical parking brake, not an electronic one).
• Crack the rear lug nuts loose 1/2 turn before lifting (use a 21mm socket and breaker bar).
• Open the hood and check brake fluid level; if it’s near MAX, be ready to remove a little to prevent overflow when compressing pistons.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Use a floor jack to lift the rear at the proper jacking point.
• Place jack stands under the frame and lower onto the stands.
• Give the truck a firm shake to confirm it’s stable.

Step 2: Remove the rear wheels

• Remove lug nuts with a 21mm socket and set the wheels aside.

Step 3: Locate the rear caliper and remove the caliper bolts

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed for rears; access is straight-on.
• Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
• Carefully lift the caliper off the bracket.
• Hang the caliper from the suspension using a bungee cord. Never hang by the hose.

Step 4: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Pull the inner and outer pads out of the bracket by hand.
• Remove the stainless pad clips (hardware) with a flat blade screwdriver.
• Clean the pad “tracks” on the bracket with a wire brush, then spray with brake cleaner.

Step 5: Compress the caliper piston

• Place one old pad against the piston face.
• Use a C-clamp to slowly press the piston fully back into the caliper.
• Check the brake fluid reservoir while compressing; don’t let it overflow.
• Slow pressure prevents seal damage.

Step 6: Service the slide pins

• Pull each slide pin out of the bracket by hand.
• Wipe old grease off and inspect the rubber boots for tears.
• Apply a thin, even coat of brake lubricant and reinstall pins so they move smoothly.
• Sticky pins cause uneven pad wear.

Step 7: Install new pad hardware and pads

• Snap the new stainless clips into the bracket (same positions as removed).
• Apply a very light film of brake lubricant where the pad ears contact the clips (metal-to-metal touch points only).
• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper

• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the caliper slide pin bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten with a 14mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Repeat on the other rear side

• Repeat Steps 3–8 on the other rear wheel. Always replace pads in pairs.

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the truck to the ground using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a 21mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 133 Nm (98 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine off, press the brake pedal slowly 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the new pads).
• Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
• Do a careful test drive: start with gentle stops, then confirm normal braking and no pulling/noises.
• Pad bedding (recommended): make 6–10 moderate stops from 50 km/h to 10 km/h, allowing a little cool-down driving between stops.
• Recheck for leaks, and verify lug nuts are still tight after 50–100 km.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹8,000–₹18,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: ₹3,000–₹9,000 (parts only)

You Save: ₹5,000–₹9,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run ₹800–₹2000/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0–1.8 hours.

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