🔧 86 - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the rear brake pads on your 86 is a straightforward job: you’ll lift the rear, remove the rear wheels, swing the rear calipers up, swap the pads, then reassemble and torque everything correctly. This restores braking performance and prevents rotor damage when pads get thin.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the car on jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
• 🔥 Brakes can be very hot; let them cool before touching calipers/rotors.
• 🧼 Avoid breathing brake dust; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• 🧯 Keep brake fluid off paint; it can damage the finish.
• 🧱 Release the parking brake before starting (rear calipers won’t come off easily if it’s applied).

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lb range)
• C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Brake caliper hanger hook
• Flat trim tool
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the transmission in P, and chock the front wheels.
• Make sure the parking brake is fully released.
• Crack the rear lug nuts loose before lifting the car (just “break them free”).
• Open the hood and check the brake fluid level; it may rise when you compress the pistons. Don’t let it overflow.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and lift the rear

• Use a 21mm socket and ratchet to loosen the rear lug nuts 1/2 turn.
• Lift the rear with the floor jack and place the car securely on jack stands.
• Remove the lug nuts with the 21mm socket and pull both rear wheels off.

Step 2: Locate the rear caliper and remove the lower slide bolt

• Find the rear brake caliper (the part that “clamps” the rotor).
• Use a 14mm socket and ratchet to remove the lower caliper slide pin bolt.
• Keep the bolt clean; set it aside.

Step 3: Swing the caliper up and support it

• Pivot the caliper upward (it swings like a hinge).
• Support the caliper with a brake caliper hanger hook so it’s not hanging by the brake hose.

Step 4: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Pull the old inner and outer pads out by hand.
• If the stainless “clips” (hardware) stay in the bracket, remove them using a flat trim tool.
• Clean the pad abutment areas (where pads slide) using a wire brush and brake cleaner spray.

Step 5: Compress the caliper piston

• Place one old brake pad against the piston face.
• Use a C-clamp (6" minimum) to slowly press the piston back into the caliper.
• Go slowly and watch the brake fluid reservoir under the hood while compressing.

Step 6: Install new hardware and pads

• Install the new hardware clips (if included) onto the caliper bracket by hand.
• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone) where the pad “ears” touch the clips. Keep grease off pad friction surfaces.
• Install the new inner and outer pads in the bracket, making sure they slide freely.

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper and torque the bolt

• Swing the caliper back down over the new pads.
• Reinstall the lower slide pin bolt using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Repeat on the other rear side

• Repeat Steps 2–7 on the other rear wheel.

Step 9: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall both rear wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the stands using the floor jack.
• Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench and 21mm socket: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• With the car on the ground, press the brake pedal slowly 10–15 times until it feels firm. This seats the pistons to the pads.
• Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
• Test at low speed first: confirm normal braking and no grinding noises.
• Pad bed-in (typical street): make 6–8 moderate stops from ~40 mph to ~10 mph, driving a bit between stops to cool.
• Re-check for leaks, and confirm the parking brake holds normally.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$150 (parts only)

You Save: $100-$300 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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