Howtoo Logo
2016 Nissan TITAN XD
2016 Nissan TITAN XD
S - V8 5.6L
Bryan specialist avatar

Have a Question? Ask a Specialist

Here is everything needed for this repair

See what I can do

Make Money

With HowToo

OnOff

Here is just the beginning of what I can do!

Select one to see me in action

Vehicle Features

Image Vehicle Features

How do I connect my phone to my stereo?

Vehicle Information

Image Vehicle Information

What is my horsepower and torque

Image Recognition

Image Image Recognition

What is this warning light on my dash?

Troubleshooting

Image Troubleshooting

I have a P0300 engine code

Vehicle Recognition

Image Vehicle Recognition

What vehicle is this?

Find shops near you

Image Find shops near you

Find a shop to do this repair

Vehicle Talk

Image Vehicle Talk

What’s your favorite vehicle of all time?

How to replace rear brake pads on Nissan Titan XD

How to replace rear brake pads on Nissan Titan XD

Suggested Parts

See all parts background
See All Parts

Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
See all parts background
See All Tools

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2016 Nissan TITAN XD (Torque Specs Included)

Step-by-step rear disc brake pad DIY with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and bolt torque values

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2016 Nissan TITAN XD (Torque Specs Included)

Step-by-step rear disc brake pad DIY with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and bolt torque values

Orion
Orion

🔧 TITAN XD - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, swing the rear brake calipers out of the way, swap the old pads for new ones, then reassemble and bed-in the pads. This restores safe stopping power and prevents rotor damage from worn pads.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours

Assumption: factory rear disc brakes with manual (cable) parking brake, not EPB.


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🧯 Work on level ground and support the truck on jack stands before going underneath.
  • 🧤 Wear safety glasses and avoid breathing brake dust; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
  • 🧱 Chock the front wheels; release the parking brake before removing rear calipers.
  • 🔥 Brakes can be hot; let them cool before you start.
  • 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 21mm socket
  • 1/2" drive breaker bar
  • 1/2" drive torque wrench (30-200 ft-lbs)
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs)
  • 14mm socket
  • 19mm socket
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • C-clamp brake piston compressor
  • Large channel-lock pliers
  • Bungee cord
  • Wire brush
  • Brake cleaner spray
  • Shop rags
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Rear brake pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
  • Brake caliper grease (silicone-based) - Qty: 1
  • Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
  • DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 bottle
  • Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2 (only if below spec or damaged)

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🅿️ Park on level ground, shift to P, and fully release the parking brake.
  • 🧱 Place wheel chocks in front of both front tires.
  • 🛢️ Open the hood and check the brake fluid level; remove some with a clean rag if it’s near “MAX” (the level rises when you compress pistons).
  • 🧰 Lay out parts and tools. A torque wrench measures bolt tightness accurately so you don’t strip or loosen bolts.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and lift the rear

  • Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the rear lug nuts 1/2 turn (do not remove yet).
  • Use a floor jack to lift the rear at the approved jacking point, then support with jack stands.
  • Remove the wheels using the 21mm socket.

Step 2: Locate the caliper and hardware

  • You’ll see the caliper (the clamp that squeezes the rotor) and the caliper bracket (the metal frame the pads slide in).
  • Turn the steering is not needed for the rear; position yourself for a clear view.

Step 3: Remove the caliper (slide pin bolts)

  • Use a 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to remove the two caliper slide pin bolts.
  • Lift the caliper off the bracket. Use a bungee cord to hang it from the suspension.
  • Never let the caliper hang by the hose.

Step 4: Remove old pads and hardware clips

  • Pull the old pads out of the bracket by hand. If stuck, gently pry with a flat-blade screwdriver.
  • Remove the stainless hardware clips from the bracket.
  • Spray the bracket pad lands with brake cleaner spray and wipe with shop rags.
  • Use a wire brush to clean rust where the clips sit.

Step 5: Check rotor condition

  • Inspect both sides of the rotor for deep grooves, cracks, heavy rust ridges, or blue heat spots.
  • If the rotor is badly worn, replace it before installing new pads.

Step 6: Compress the caliper piston

  • Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap (under the hood) to let fluid move back more easily.
  • Place an old pad against the piston face, then use a C-clamp brake piston compressor to slowly press the piston fully back into the caliper.
  • If the piston boots twist, straighten them by hand using nitrile gloves.
  • Go slow to avoid overflowing brake fluid.

Step 7: Lubricate and install new hardware + pads

  • Install the new hardware clips into the bracket by hand.
  • Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone-based) where the pad ears contact the clips.
  • Install the new pads into the bracket (match inner/outer orientation exactly as removed).
  • If your pads include shims, install them as supplied with the pad kit.

Step 8: Reinstall caliper and tighten bolts

  • Slide the caliper back over the new pads.
  • Install the slide pin bolts by hand, then tighten with a 14mm socket and 3/8" torque wrench.
  • Torque to 30-35 Nm (22-26 ft-lbs) for rear caliper slide pin bolts.
  • Start bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.

Step 9: If bracket bolts were removed (only if needed)

  • If you removed the caliper bracket (sometimes needed for rotor replacement), reinstall the bracket bolts using a 19mm socket and 1/2" torque wrench.
  • Torque to 95-110 Nm (70-81 ft-lbs) for rear caliper bracket bolts.
  • These bolts are usually very tight.

Step 10: Reinstall wheels

  • Reinstall the wheels and snug the lug nuts using a 21mm socket and breaker bar.
  • Lower the truck off the jack stands using the floor jack.
  • Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a 21mm socket and 1/2" drive torque wrench.
  • Torque to 175-185 Nm (129-136 ft-lbs) for lug nuts.

✅ After Repair

  • 🦶 With the engine OFF, press the brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the new pads).
  • 🛢️ Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
  • 🔍 Inspect both rear calipers for any wetness or leaks.
  • 🧪 Test drive at low speed first. Confirm normal braking and no pulling or grinding noises.
  • 🛑 Pad break-in: make 6-10 gentle stops from ~30 mph to 5 mph, with 30 seconds between stops. Avoid hard braking for the first 200 miles.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$650 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $80-$220 (parts only)

You Save: $270-$430 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.


🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

Parts
Tools
Menu
Videos
Earn