🔧 Pathfinder - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the rear brake pads restores safe stopping and prevents rotor damage when pads get thin or start squealing. You’ll remove the rear calipers, swap the pads, and retract the caliper pistons so everything fits back together correctly.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and use jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Release the parking brake before starting (the parking brake is inside the rear rotor “hat”).
• ⚠️ Brake dust is hazardous—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Don’t let the caliper hang by the brake hose—support it with a hook/strap.
• ⚠️ Keep brake fluid off paint; it damages finishes.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Lug wrench (21mm)
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• Socket set (12mm, 14mm, 17mm)
• Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
• Torque wrench (20–200 ft-lbs range)
• C-clamp (6" or larger)
• Brake caliper hanger hook
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and release the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks in front of both front tires.
• Crack the rear lug nuts loose 1/2 turn using a 21mm lug wrench before lifting.
• Pop the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir level; fluid may rise when you compress pistons. Remove a little fluid if near MAX.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Lift the rear using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper rear jacking point.
• Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under solid frame/support points.
• Remove the rear wheels using a 21mm lug wrench.

Step 2: Locate the rear caliper and pads

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed; you’re working at the rear.
• Identify the rear brake caliper (the clamp over the rotor) and the caliper bracket (the larger mount behind it).

Step 3: Remove the caliper

• Remove the lower and upper caliper slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket. If it’s stuck, gently pry with a flat-blade screwdriver.
• Support the caliper using a brake caliper hanger hook. (This hook holds the caliper so the brake hose isn’t strained.)

Step 4: Remove old pads and hardware

• Slide the old pads out of the bracket by hand.
• Remove the old abutment clips (pad hardware) from the bracket.
• Clean the bracket pad lands (where the clips sit) using brake cleaner spray and a wire brush.

Step 5: Retract the caliper piston

• Place one old pad against the piston face to spread the force.
• Compress the piston slowly using a C-clamp (6" or larger) until it seats fully.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir; don’t let it overflow. Use shop towels to protect nearby paint.

Step 6: Install new hardware and pads

• Install new abutment clips from the hardware kit onto the bracket by hand.
• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone) to the pad ears where they touch the clips. Keep grease off pad friction material.
• Slide the new pads into the bracket.

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper

• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• If the slide pins don’t line up, compress the caliper slightly by hand and try again.
• Install the caliper slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench (20–200 ft-lbs range).

Step 8: Repeat on the other rear wheel

• Repeat Steps 3–7 on the opposite rear side.
• Compare both sides when finished to ensure pads and clips are seated the same way.

Step 9: Reinstall wheels

• Reinstall both rear wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench (20–200 ft-lbs range).
• Torque to 133 Nm (98 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine off, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm. This seats the pads.
• Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
• Re-engage the parking brake and verify it holds the vehicle.
• Test drive at low speed first. Confirm normal braking and no grinding noises.
• Pad bed-in (recommended): make 6–10 moderate stops from ~30 mph down to ~5 mph, allowing 30–60 seconds between stops for cooling.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $300-$550 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$150 (parts only)

You Save: $240-$400 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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