🔧 Outlander - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll be removing the rear calipers, swapping the old pads for new ones, then compressing the caliper piston so everything fits back together. The key is handling the parking brake correctly and torquing the fasteners so the brakes stay quiet and safe.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

Assumption: Outlander rear brakes may be EPB or cable-type; steps include both paths.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and use jack stands; never rely on a jack.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed (it can pop the piston out).
• ⚠️ If your Outlander has an electronic parking brake (EPB), put it in service/maintenance mode before pushing the piston in.
• ⚠️ Brakes may contain dust; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ If you disconnect the battery, keep the tailgate and doors unlocked first.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (10–200 Nm range)
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Needle-nose pliers
• Flat trim tool
• Bungee cord
• Brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty)
• Disc brake piston wind-back cube tool (specialty)
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware/abutment clip kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone-based) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2 (only if worn, warped, or below spec)

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, straighten the steering wheel, and chock the front wheels.
• 🛑 If you have a cable/lever parking brake: release it fully before lifting the vehicle.
• ⚡ If you have EPB: set EPB to maintenance mode using a scan tool function (preferred). This retracts the parking brake motor so the piston can be compressed safely.
• 🧰 Loosen rear wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the rear

• Use a floor jack to lift the rear at the approved center jacking point.
• Set the vehicle onto jack stands at the rear support points.
• Remove both rear wheels using a 21mm socket.
• Reinstall one lug nut hand-tight on each hub to keep the rotor from wobbling.

Step 2: Identify which parking brake system you have

• If you have a switch on the console: that’s EPB (electronic parking brake).
• If you have a lever/pedal and a cable to the rear brakes: that’s cable-type.

Step 3 (EPB only): Retract EPB (maintenance mode)

• Use a scan tool (specialty) and run the EPB “Maintenance/Service Mode” function.
• This step prevents damage to the EPB motor and gears when compressing the caliper piston.

Step 4: Remove the caliper (outer portion)

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed; rear access is straight-on.
• Remove the two caliper slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket.
• Support the caliper with a bungee cord so it doesn’t hang by the brake hose.
• Torque on reassembly: caliper slide pin bolts Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)

Step 5: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Pull the pads out of the bracket by hand; use a flat trim tool if they’re stuck.
• Remove the stainless pad clips (hardware) from the bracket using a flat trim tool.
• Clean the bracket pad lands (where clips sit) using a wire brush and brake cleaner spray.
• Clean metal-to-metal contact areas only.

Step 6: Remove the caliper bracket (if replacing rotors or cleaning thoroughly)

• If you are not replacing rotors, you can often leave the bracket on and skip to the piston step.
• Remove the bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and breaker bar.
• Torque on reassembly: rear caliper bracket bolts Torque to 90 Nm (66 ft-lbs)

Step 7: Compress (retract) the caliper piston

• Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap under the hood (this helps fluid move back). Set it on loosely.
• Watch the brake fluid level; if it rises near the top, remove a little fluid safely.
• Use a brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty) to push the piston straight in, slowly.
• If your piston face has “X”/notches and won’t push in: use a disc brake piston wind-back cube tool (specialty) and rotate while pushing in.
• Go slow to avoid tearing the piston seal.

Step 8: Service the slide pins

• Pull the slide pins out of the bracket by hand (note their positions).
• Wipe them clean with a shop towel, then apply a thin coat of brake caliper grease.
• Reinstall pins and make sure they move smoothly.

Step 9: Install new hardware clips and pads

• Install the new stainless clips into the bracket by hand; press them fully seated.
• Apply a very thin film of brake caliper grease where the pad ears touch the clips.
• Install the new inner and outer pads in the bracket.

Step 10: Reinstall the caliper

• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Thread the slide pin bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten with a 14mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque: caliper slide pin bolts Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)

Step 11: Reinstall wheels

• Remove the temporary lug nut holding the rotor.
• Install the wheel and hand-thread all lug nuts.
• Snug lug nuts in a star pattern using a 21mm socket.
• Lower the vehicle and torque lug nuts with a torque wrench.
• Torque: wheel lug nuts Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs)

Step 12 (EPB only): Exit maintenance mode

• Use the scan tool (specialty) to command EPB out of maintenance/service mode.
• Apply and release the EPB once to confirm normal operation.

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✅ After Repair

• 🦶 With the vehicle on the ground, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm.
• 🧴 Check brake fluid level and reinstall the reservoir cap.
• 🔍 Look for leaks and confirm the brake hose isn’t twisted.
• 🛣️ Road test at low speed first; confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• 🔥 Pad bedding (break-in): make 6–10 gentle stops from 30–5 mph, letting brakes cool between stops.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $280-$550 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$160 (parts only)

You Save: $220-$390 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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