🔧 IS - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, swing the rear calipers out of the way, replace the pads and hardware, then compress the caliper piston so everything fits back together. Doing it carefully prevents brake noise, uneven wear, and sticking calipers.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on level ground and use jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
• 🔥 Brakes get extremely hot; let everything cool before touching calipers or rotors.
• 🧪 Avoid inhaling brake dust; use brake cleaner and wear a dust mask.
• 🧯 Keep brake fluid off paint; it can damage finishes quickly.
• 🔒 Make sure the parking brake is fully released before you start.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this pad replacement.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (pair, rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks (pair)
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Torque wrench (10–200 Nm range)
• Brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty)
• Bungee cord or mechanic’s wire
• Flat trim/pry tool
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Dust mask

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, shift to P, and fully release the parking brake.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks at the front wheels.
• 🛠️ Crack the rear lug nuts loose 1/4 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• 🧴 Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; fluid level may rise when you compress pistons.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Use a floor jack to lift the rear at the approved jacking point.
• Set the car down onto jack stands and give it a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable.

Step 2: Remove the rear wheels

• Remove lug nuts using a 21mm socket and ratchet, then remove both rear wheels.
• Do one side at a time for confidence.

Step 3: Remove the caliper (swing it up/off)

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed for rear access; just position yourself comfortably.
• Locate the two caliper slide pin bolts on the back of the caliper.
• Remove the slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Carefully lift the caliper off the bracket and support it with a bungee cord or mechanic’s wire.
• Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose.

Step 4: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Pull the brake pads out of the bracket by hand; use a flat trim/pry tool if they’re stuck.
• Remove the pad hardware clips from the bracket using the flat trim/pry tool.
• Clean the bracket pad “tracks” with a wire brush, then spray with brake cleaner and let it dry.

Step 5: Check rotor and caliper condition

• Inspect the rotor faces for heavy grooves, cracking, or a pronounced outer “lip.”
• Check the caliper dust boot for tears and look for wetness (brake fluid leak).
• If anything looks severe, stop and address it.

Step 6: Compress the caliper piston

• Remove the reservoir cap if needed to prevent pressure buildup, and keep an eye on fluid level.
• Use a brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty) to slowly press the piston straight back into the caliper. (This tool pushes the piston in evenly so the new thicker pads fit.)
• Go slowly; if it won’t compress smoothly, stop and re-check that the parking brake is released and the piston is pressing straight.

Step 7: Install new hardware and pads

• Install the new hardware clips onto the bracket by hand (match positions left-to-right as removed).
• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone) where the pad ears contact the hardware clips.
• Slide the new pads into the bracket.
• Do not get grease on the pad friction material or rotor surface; clean with brake cleaner if you do.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper

• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the caliper slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket.
• Torque to 25 Nm (19 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench. (A torque wrench tightens to an exact value so parts don’t loosen or strip.)

Step 9: Repeat on the other rear wheel

• Repeat Steps 3–8 on the opposite side.
• Replace pads in pairs, always.

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall both rear wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
• Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• 🦶 With the engine off, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the new pads).
• 🧴 Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed (use the correct DOT brake fluid listed on the reservoir cap).
• 👂 Test at low speed first; listen for abnormal grinding or pulling.
• 🛣️ Bed-in the pads: do 6–10 moderate stops from ~40 mph down to ~10 mph, allowing short cool-down between stops.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$140 (parts only)

You Save: $110-$390 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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