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2016 INFINITI QX50
2016 INFINITI QX50
Base - V6 3.7L
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Infiniti QX 50 rear brakes

Infiniti QX 50 rear brakes

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
3/8
3/8
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How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2016 INFINITI QX50 (DIY Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2016 INFINITI QX50 (DIY Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs

Orion
Orion

🔧 QX50 - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the rear brake pads restores safe stopping power and prevents metal-to-metal damage to your rotors. You’ll remove the rear caliper, swap the pads, compress the caliper piston, and reassemble everything with the correct torque.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the QX50 with jack stands before going underneath.
  • ⚠️ Chock the front wheels; you’ll be lifting the rear.
  • ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—wear a mask and use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
  • ⚠️ Keep grease off pad friction surfaces and rotor faces.
  • ⚠️ If brake fluid reservoir is full, fluid may rise when compressing pistons—watch for overflow.
  • ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this mechanical brake service.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 21mm socket
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 14mm socket
  • 19mm socket
  • Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
  • Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • C-clamp (6")
  • Disc brake piston compressor tool (specialty)
  • Brake caliper hanger hook
  • Wire brush
  • Brake cleaner spray
  • Shop towels
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Rear brake hardware kit (clips/abutments) - Qty: 1
  • Brake caliper grease (silicone brake lubricant) - Qty: 1
  • Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
  • Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 quart
  • Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2 Replace in pairs if needed

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, turn the engine off, and set the parking brake.
  • Loosen rear lug nuts slightly before lifting (do not remove yet).
  • Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; keep the cap loosely set on top.
  • A disc brake piston compressor tool is a clamp-style tool that pushes the caliper piston back in evenly.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Assumption: Torque values shown are common QX50 rear brake specs; if your fasteners differ, use the factory service spec for your exact caliper/bracket.

Step 1: Lift the rear and remove the wheels

  • Use wheel chocks on the front wheels.
  • Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to loosen rear lug nuts 1/2 turn.
  • Use a floor jack to lift the rear and place jack stands under the rear jacking/support points.
  • Remove lug nuts with the 21mm socket and take off both rear wheels.

Step 2: Access the rear caliper

  • Turn the steering wheel is not needed for rear work; position yourself for clear access.
  • Inspect the brake hose routing and take a quick photo for reference.

Step 3: Remove the caliper (not the bracket yet)

  • Locate the two caliper slide pin bolts (typically the smaller bolts on the back of the caliper).
  • Use a 14mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the slide pin bolts.
  • Lift the caliper off the bracket and rotor.
  • Hang the caliper using a brake caliper hanger hook so it does not hang by the hose.
  • Torque on install: Torque to 25-30 Nm (18-22 ft-lbs)

Step 4: Remove old pads and hardware

  • Pull the inner and outer pads out of the bracket by hand; use a flathead screwdriver gently if stuck.
  • Remove the pad abutment clips (hardware) using needle-nose pliers or a flathead screwdriver.
  • Clean the bracket pad lands (where clips sit) using a wire brush and brake cleaner spray.
  • Clean metal-to-metal contact points only.

Step 5: Check rotor condition

  • Spray the rotor with brake cleaner spray and wipe with shop towels.
  • If the rotor is deeply grooved, cracked, or heavily rust-lipped, replace both rear rotors.
  • If replacing rotors, remove the caliper bracket using a 19mm socket and breaker bar.
  • Torque on install (caliper bracket): Torque to 90-110 Nm (66-81 ft-lbs)

Step 6: Compress the caliper piston

  • Before compressing, look at the brake fluid reservoir level under the hood; remove a little fluid if it’s near MAX.
  • Use a disc brake piston compressor tool (specialty) or a C-clamp (6") to push the piston straight back in slowly and evenly.
  • If the piston will not push straight in, stop and switch to a compressor that can rotate while pushing (some rear calipers require a screw-in motion).
  • Go slow to avoid damaging the seal.

Step 7: Install new hardware and pads

  • Install new abutment clips from the rear brake hardware kit into the bracket by hand.
  • Apply a thin layer of brake caliper grease to the clip contact points (where pad “ears” slide).
  • Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.
  • If your pad set includes a wear indicator, match it to the same side/orientation as the old pads.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper

  • Lower the caliper over the new pads.
  • Thread the slide pin bolts in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the slide pin bolts.
  • Torque: Torque to 25-30 Nm (18-22 ft-lbs)

Step 9: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

  • Reinstall both rear wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
  • Lower the QX50 off the jack stands using the floor jack.
  • Use a 21mm socket and torque wrench to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern.
  • Torque: Torque to 110 Nm (81 ft-lbs)

✅ After Repair

  • With the engine off, press the brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until it feels firm.
  • Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 if needed (do not overfill).
  • Start the engine and confirm the pedal stays firm.
  • Road test at low speed first; verify no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
  • Bed-in the pads: make 6-10 moderate stops from 30-40 mph, letting brakes cool between stops.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$500 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$180 (parts only)

You Save: $190-$320 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.


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