🔧 Elantra - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing your rear brake pads restores safe stopping power and prevents metal-to-metal damage to the rotors. You’ll remove the rear wheels, swing the calipers up, compress the pistons, then install new pads and hardware.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with the caliper removed.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is unhealthy; wear a dust mask and use brake cleaner (no compressed air).
• ⚠️ Release the parking brake before starting (rear calipers can bind if it’s on).
• ⚠️ Watch the brake fluid level while compressing pistons; it can overflow.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-100 ft-lbs)
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Flat trim/pry tool
• Needle-nose pliers
• Brake caliper piston tool kit (specialty)
• C-clamp (6")
• Bungee cord or mechanics wire
• Brake cleaner
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Dust mask
• Wire brush

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware/clip kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2 (optional if worn/grooved)

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the transmission in P, and chock the front wheels.
• Release the parking brake fully.
• Pop the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; keep an eye on the fluid level during piston compression.
• Tip: Take a photo of each side before disassembly.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Assumption (1 line): Your Elantra’s rear caliper piston may either press straight in or require “push-and-rotate” compression; follow the matching step below.

Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and raise the rear

• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the rear wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn (do not remove yet).
• Use a floor jack to lift the rear at the approved lift point, then support with jack stands.
• Remove the wheels using the 21mm socket.

Step 2: Locate the rear caliper and remove the lower/upper slide bolts

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed for the rear; just position yourself for access.
• Find the two caliper slide (guide) bolts on the back of the caliper.
• Use a 14mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the slide bolts.

Step 3: Swing the caliper up and support it

• Carefully lift/swing the caliper away from the pads.
• Hang the caliper using a bungee cord or mechanics wire so it does not pull on the brake hose.
• Tip: Never let the caliper hang by the hose.

Step 4: Remove old pads and hardware

• Pull the old pads out of the bracket by hand; use a flat trim/pry tool if they’re stuck.
• Remove the stainless hardware clips from the bracket using needle-nose pliers or a flat trim/pry tool.
• Use a wire brush to clean rust from the pad “lands” (the areas the clips sit on).
• Spray the bracket with brake cleaner and wipe with shop towels.

Step 5: Compress the rear caliper piston

• Check the brake fluid reservoir under the hood before compressing.
• If the piston presses straight in: Use a C-clamp (6") to slowly press the piston fully into the caliper.
• If the piston must “push-and-rotate”: Use a brake caliper piston tool kit (specialty) to rotate the piston clockwise while applying inward pressure until fully seated.
• A “piston tool kit” is a tool that pushes and turns the piston so it retracts without damage.

Step 6: Install new hardware clips and pads

• Install the new hardware clips into the bracket by hand (they should snap in firmly).
• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone) where the pad ears contact the clips.
• Install the new pads into the bracket in the same orientation as removed.
• Tip: Keep grease off pad friction surfaces.

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper and tighten slide bolts

• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Reinstall the slide bolts using a 14mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Final-tighten with a 3/8" drive torque wrench: Torque to 24-29 Nm (18-21 ft-lbs).

Step 8: If you removed the caliper bracket (only if needed)

• If you removed the bracket to service/replace rotors, reinstall bracket bolts using a 17mm socket.
• Final-tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 65-80 Nm (48-59 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Install wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the car using the floor jack, then remove jack stands and fully lower.
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a 21mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 88-108 Nm (65-80 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• With the car on the ground, press the brake pedal slowly 8-12 times until it feels firm.
• Check the brake fluid level at the reservoir; top off only if needed (use the correct DOT brake fluid listed on the cap).
• Apply and release the parking brake a few times to verify normal operation.
• Do a careful test drive at low speed first; confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• Pad bed-in (recommended): Make 6-8 moderate stops from 30 mph to 5 mph, letting brakes cool 30-60 seconds between stops.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$140 (parts only)

You Save: $110-$405 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.