🔧 Focus - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the rear brake pads restores safe stopping power and prevents rotor damage when pads get thin. On your Focus, the rear caliper piston typically must be turned while being pushed in because it’s tied to the parking-brake mechanism.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🧯 Work on level ground; support the car on jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
• 🧤 Let brakes cool before starting; brake parts can be extremely hot.
• 🛑 Keep the parking brake RELEASED while servicing rear brakes.
• 👓 Do not inhale brake dust; use brake cleaner and wear a mask if dusty.
• 🔒 Do not press the brake pedal with the caliper removed.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 1/2" drive (20-200 Nm range)
• 7mm hex bit socket
• 15mm socket
• Ratchet 3/8" drive
• Small flat-blade screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Brake piston wind-back tool (specialty)
• Bungee cord
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
• Silicone brake lubricant - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and chock the front wheels.
• Release the parking brake fully.
• Tip: Do one side at a time for reference.
• Assumption: Rear disc brakes with a screw-in caliper piston (common on Focus rear).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts

• Use a 19mm socket with a breaker bar 1/2" to loosen (do not remove) the lug nuts while the car is still on the ground.

Step 2: Lift and support the rear

• Use a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to lift the rear at the proper jacking point.
• Set the car down onto jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) and give the car a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable.
• Remove the lug nuts with the 19mm socket and take the wheel off.

Step 3: Remove the caliper slide (guide pin) bolts

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed; you’re working in the rear.
• Use a 7mm hex bit socket with a ratchet 3/8" drive to remove the two caliper slide bolts (upper and lower).
• Carefully lift the caliper off the bracket.
• Support the caliper with a bungee cord so it doesn’t hang by the brake hose.

Step 4: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Pull the inner and outer brake pads out by hand. If they’re stuck, gently pry with a small flat-blade screwdriver.
• Remove the old pad clips from the caliper bracket (these are the stainless “hardware” pieces the pads slide on).

Step 5: Inspect and clean contact points

• Spray the bracket and pad areas with brake cleaner (use your safety glasses).
• Use a wire brush to clean rust where the pad clips sit until the surface is smooth.
• Tip: Smooth pad slides prevent squeaks and dragging.

Step 6: Retract (wind back) the rear caliper piston

• Install your brake piston wind-back tool (specialty). A wind-back tool is a tool that pushes the piston in while turning it.
• Turn and press the piston inward slowly until it bottoms out in the caliper.
• If it will not retract, stop—forcing it can damage the caliper.

Step 7: Install new pad hardware and pads

• Install the new clips from the rear brake pad hardware kit onto the caliper bracket.
• Apply a thin film of silicone brake lubricant to:
  • The pad ears (where pads touch the clips)
  • The caliper slide pin contact areas (do not grease the pad friction material)
• Install the new inner and outer pads in the bracket.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper

• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Reinstall the caliper slide bolts using the 7mm hex bit socket and ratchet 3/8" drive.
• Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Reinstall the wheel

• Put the wheel back on and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum).
• Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench 1/2" drive: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Repeat on the other rear side

• Repeat Steps 1–9 on the other rear wheel.

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm.
• Apply and release the parking brake a few times to help the mechanism self-adjust.
• Do a slow test drive and verify no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• Brake pad break-in: make 6–10 moderate stops from 30–40 mph, allowing 30–60 seconds between stops for cooling.
• Recheck lug nut torque with a torque wrench 1/2" drive after 50–100 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $130-$410 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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