🔧 F-150 - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll remove the rear calipers, swap the old pads for new ones, then compress the caliper pistons so everything fits back together safely. Worn pads reduce stopping power and can damage the rotors if you let them go too far.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

Assumption: Rear disc brakes with a standard (non-electronic) parking brake.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and use jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Chock the front wheels with wheel chocks so the truck can’t roll.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is off the rotor.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is unhealthy—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Keep grease and brake fluid off pad and rotor friction surfaces.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (30-250 ft-lbs range)
• 13mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range)
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Brake parts cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware/clip kit - Qty: 1
• High-temp silicone brake grease - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks in front of and behind a front tire.
• Loosen rear lug nuts slightly before lifting: use a 21mm socket and breaker bar (about 1/2 turn).
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. You may need to remove a little fluid if it’s near the MAX line when you compress the pistons.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the rear

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the rear at a safe jacking point.
• Set the truck onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and gently shake the truck to confirm it’s stable.
• Remove the lug nuts with a 21mm socket and take the rear wheels off.

Step 2: Locate the caliper and remove the caliper bolts

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed on the rear, but you can rotate the hub by hand for a better angle if needed.
• Find the two caliper slide-pin bolts (these are the smaller bolts that hold the caliper to the bracket).
• Remove the slide-pin bolts using a 13mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Slide pins are the two “rails” the caliper moves on.

Step 3: Remove and support the caliper

• Carefully lift the caliper off the rotor. If it’s tight, gently pry with a flat-blade screwdriver.
• Hang the caliper from the suspension using a bungee cord.
• Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose.

Step 4: Remove old pads and hardware

• Pull the old brake pads out of the bracket by hand.
• Remove the old stainless pad clips (hardware) from the bracket using a flat-blade screwdriver.
• Clean the bracket “pad shelves” (where the clips sit) with brake parts cleaner spray and a wire brush.

Step 5: Compress the caliper piston

• Place one old pad against the piston face, then use a C-clamp (6" minimum) to slowly press the piston back into the caliper.
• A C-clamp squeezes the piston in evenly.
• Go slowly and watch the brake fluid level under the hood so it doesn’t overflow.

Step 6: Install new hardware and pads

• Install the new pad clips from the hardware kit into the bracket by hand (they should snap into place).
• Apply a thin film of high-temp silicone brake grease where the pad ears touch the clips.
• Install the new pads into the bracket (match inner/outer pad if they differ).
• Do not get grease on the pad friction surface.

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper

• Lower the caliper over the new pads and rotor.
• Install the slide-pin bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading, then tighten with a 13mm socket and 3/8" drive torque wrench.
• Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) for the rear caliper slide-pin bolts.

Step 8: Repeat on the other rear side

• Repeat Steps 2–7 on the opposite rear wheel.
• Always replace rear pads as a pair.

Step 9: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the truck off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a 21mm socket and 1/2" drive torque wrench: Torque to 204 Nm (150 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine off, pump the brake pedal 8–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons back against the pads).
• Check the brake fluid level and top off only if needed (use the correct DOT brake fluid listed on the reservoir cap).
• Do a slow test drive in a safe area. Confirm normal braking and no pulling/noises.
• Brake pad break-in: make 6–10 moderate stops from ~30–40 mph with cool-down between stops.
• Recheck lug nut torque after ~50 miles using a 21mm socket and 1/2" drive torque wrench.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$160 (parts only)

You Save: $190-$290 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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