🔧 Colorado - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the rear brake pads on your Colorado means removing the rear wheels, swinging the caliper out of the way, and swapping in new pads with the hardware. This restores safe stopping power and prevents rotor damage when pads get thin.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the truck with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful; wear a dust mask and do not blow dust with compressed air.
• ⚠️ Keep brake fluid off paint; it can damage finishes quickly.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed; it can pop the piston out.
• ⚠️ If your Colorado has an electronic parking brake, pads require a scan-tool “service mode.” Assumption: WT rear parking brake is cable/foot-pedal type.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 1/2" drive (30-200 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set 3/8" drive (8mm-18mm)
• Ratchet 3/8" drive
• 13mm socket
• 18mm socket
• Open-end wrench set (13mm-18mm)
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• C-clamp 6"
• Brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty)
• Wire hook or bungee cord
• Small wire brush
• Brake parts cleaner spray
• High-temp silicone brake grease
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Dust mask

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
• High-temp brake grease - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 pint

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and chock the front wheels.
• Release the parking brake fully before starting.
• Open the hood and remove the brake fluid reservoir cap (leave it sitting loosely). This helps the caliper piston push back easier.
• Pre-loosen the rear wheel lug nuts slightly using a breaker bar before lifting.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Use a floor jack to lift the rear at the rear differential (center “pumpkin”).
• Place jack stands under the frame rails on both sides, then lower onto the stands.
• Keep the wheel chocks at the front wheels.

Step 2: Remove the rear wheels

• Remove the lug nuts using a socket set 3/8" drive (8mm-18mm) and ratchet 3/8" drive.
• Set wheels aside flat so they can’t roll.

Step 3: Locate the caliper and check the hose

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed for the rear; just position yourself to see the caliper.
• Inspect the rubber brake hose for cracks or leaks; clean the area with shop towels.

Step 4: Remove the caliper slide pin bolts

• Use a 13mm socket to remove the two caliper slide pin bolts (upper and lower).
• If the slide pin spins, hold it with an open-end wrench set (13mm-18mm) while loosening the bolt.

Step 5: Lift the caliper off and support it

• Pry gently with a flat-blade screwdriver if the caliper is tight over the pads.
• Hang the caliper from the suspension using a wire hook or bungee cord.
• Never let the caliper dangle by the hose.

Step 6: Remove old pads and hardware

• Pull the inner and outer pads out by hand. If stuck, wiggle them free.
• Remove the stainless pad clips from the caliper bracket.
• Clean the caliper bracket pad lands (the metal “rails” the clips sit on) using a small wire brush and brake parts cleaner spray.
• A “pad land” is the flat area where the pad hardware clips sit.

Step 7: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old pad against the piston face.
• Use a C-clamp 6" or brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty) to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
• A piston compressor is a tool that pushes the piston in evenly and straight.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir level; remove excess with shop towels if it gets close to overflowing.

Step 8: Install new hardware clips and grease contact points

• Install the new clips from the hardware kit onto the caliper bracket by hand.
• Apply a thin film of high-temp silicone brake grease where the pad ears slide on the clips.
• Do not get grease on pad friction material.

Step 9: Install the new pads

• Install the inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.
• If one pad has a wear indicator (“squealer”), match it to the same position as the old set.

Step 10: Reinstall the caliper

• Lower the caliper over the new pads by hand.
• If it won’t fit, re-check that the piston is fully compressed using the C-clamp 6".
• Install the slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket.
• Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs) for the rear caliper slide pin bolts.

Step 11: Repeat on the other rear wheel

• Repeat Steps 3-10 on the opposite side.
• Always replace pads on both sides.

Step 12: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the truck off the stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench 1/2" drive.
• Torque to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs) for the wheel lug nuts.

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✅ After Repair

• Pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm. This seats the pads against the rotor.
• Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 if needed.
• With the truck in a safe area, do a slow test stop from 5-10 mph to confirm normal braking.
• Bed-in the pads: make 6-10 moderate stops from 30 mph to 5 mph, letting brakes cool a minute between stops.
• Re-check for leaks and listen for abnormal grinding or clunks.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$150 (parts only)

You Save: $190-$300 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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