🔧 Crosstrek - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, swing the rear brake calipers out of the way, replace the pads, and then reassemble everything to spec. New pads restore braking power and reduce squealing/grinding when the old pads get thin.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Work on level ground and support the Crosstrek with jack stands before going under it.
• Chock the front wheels and leave the parking brake released while working on the rear brakes (so the rear rotors can spin).
• Brake dust is harmful; avoid blowing it out with air—use brake cleaner instead.
• Brake parts can be hot; let everything cool before starting.
• Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is off the rotor.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
• Torque wrench (10–200 Nm range)
• C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and place wheel chocks at the front tires.
• Release the parking brake (rear brakes need to move freely).
• Crack the rear lug nuts loose before lifting the vehicle (about 1/4 turn).
• Open the hood and check the brake fluid level; if it’s near “MAX,” be ready to remove a little later because pushing the pistons back can raise the level.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear of the Crosstrek

• Use a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to lift the rear at a safe jacking point.
• Set the vehicle down onto jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum).
• Confirm it’s stable before removing wheels.

Step 2: Remove both rear wheels

• Use a 19mm socket with a breaker bar (1/2" drive) to remove the lug nuts.
• Remove both rear wheels so you can compare left/right if you get stuck. Take a quick photo before disassembly.

Step 3: Locate the caliper bolts and remove the lower bolt

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed for rear brakes; just work with the wheel off.
• On the rear caliper, find the two caliper slide bolts (upper and lower).
• Use a 14mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the lower caliper slide bolt.

Step 4: Swing the caliper up and support it

• Swing the caliper upward like a hinge (it pivots on the remaining upper bolt).
• Support the caliper with a bungee cord so it doesn’t hang by the brake hose.

Step 5: Remove the old pads and hardware clips

• Pull the inner and outer pads straight out by hand.
• If the stainless hardware clips are being replaced, remove them from the bracket.
• Use a flathead screwdriver gently if anything is stuck.

Step 6: Clean the bracket and install new hardware

• Spray the bracket pad “lands” with brake cleaner spray.
• Use a wire brush to remove rust where the pad ears slide.
• Install the new hardware clips from the rear brake pad hardware kit.

Step 7: Compress the caliper piston

• Before compressing, check the brake fluid reservoir level again.
• Use a C-clamp (6" minimum) (a screw clamp that pushes the piston back) to slowly press the piston fully into the caliper.
• Go slow and keep the clamp straight so the piston doesn’t bind.

Step 8: Grease the correct spots and install the new pads

• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone) to the pad ears where they touch the hardware clips.
• Do not get grease on the pad friction material or rotor face.
• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.

Step 9: Reinstall the caliper and torque the slide bolt

• Swing the caliper back down over the new pads.
• Reinstall the lower caliper slide bolt using a 14mm socket.
• Tighten using a torque wrench (10–200 Nm range) (a wrench that measures tightening force): Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Repeat on the other rear side

• Repeat Steps 3–9 on the opposite rear wheel.
• Do one side at a time to avoid mix-ups.

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall both rear wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle using the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum).
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench (10–200 Nm range): Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Before driving, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the new pads).
• Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed (do not overfill).
• Test at low speed first: confirm normal stopping and no pulling/noise.
• Pad bed-in: make 6–10 gentle stops from 30 mph to 5 mph, letting brakes cool a bit between stops.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $210-$330 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.