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2016 Hyundai Sonata
2016 - 2019 Hyundai Sonata
Inline 4 2.4L
Compatible with more variants.
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How to Replace Rear Brakes 2015-2019 Hyundai Sonata

How to Replace Rear Brakes 2015-2019 Hyundai Sonata

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

2 Ton
2 Ton
Floor Jack
2 Ton
2 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
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How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2016-2019 Hyundai Sonata (EPB & Non-EPB) (Engine: Inline 4 2.4L)

Step-by-step rear disc brake pad change with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2016-2019 Hyundai Sonata (EPB & Non-EPB) (Engine: Inline 4 2.4L)

Step-by-step rear disc brake pad change with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019

Orion
Orion

🔧 Sonata - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, swing the brake caliper out of the way, replace the pads, and compress the caliper piston so the new (thicker) pads fit. Doing this correctly restores safe stopping power and prevents uneven wear and noise.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours

Assumption: Rear brakes are disc brakes; EPB may vary by trim—both methods are included below.


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on level ground; support the car with jack stands before going under or pulling wheels.
  • ⚠️ Do one side at a time so you can use the other side as a reference.
  • ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while the caliper is off the rotor.
  • ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—avoid blowing it with compressed air; use brake cleaner.
  • ⚠️ If equipped with an electronic parking brake (EPB), do not force the rear pistons without putting the system in service mode first.
  • ⚠️ Keep brake fluid off paint; it can damage the finish.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (pair, rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 21mm socket
  • Breaker bar
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • Torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
  • 14mm socket
  • 17mm socket
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty)
  • Bungee cord or mechanics wire
  • Wire brush
  • Brake parts cleaner
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Rear pad hardware/abutment clip kit - Qty: 1
  • Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
  • Brake anti-squeal compound - Qty: 1
  • Brake cleaner - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, shift to Park, and chock the front wheels with wheel chocks.
  • Release the parking brake.
  • If equipped with EPB: set the EPB to service mode before compressing pistons. (Service mode retracts the parking brake motors so you don’t damage them.)
  • Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; keep the cap loosely set on top (don’t remove it fully unless needed). Fluid may rise when you compress pistons.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen rear wheel lug nuts

  • Use a 21mm socket with a breaker bar to loosen (do not remove) the rear lug nuts about 1/2 turn.

Step 2: Lift and support the rear

  • Use a floor jack to lift the rear of the car at the approved jacking point.
  • Set the car onto jack stands and give it a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable.
  • Remove the wheels using the 21mm socket.

Step 3: Identify your parking brake type (EPB vs cable)

  • If you see an electrical motor/connector on the rear caliper, you have EPB.
  • If you see a parking brake cable going to the rear brake assembly and no motor on the caliper, it’s a mechanical system.

Step 4: (EPB only) Retract the EPB for service

  • If you have EPB, you typically need a scan tool to command “Brake Pad Replacement/EPB Service Mode.”
  • Don’t skip this—forcing pistons can break the EPB.

Step 5: Remove the caliper guide bolts

  • Turn the steering slightly if needed for better access (rear access is usually fine).
  • Use a 14mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the two caliper guide/slide bolts (top and bottom).

Step 6: Lift caliper off and support it

  • Carefully lift the caliper off the bracket.
  • Hang the caliper from the suspension with a bungee cord or mechanics wire.
  • Never let the caliper hang by the hose.

Step 7: Remove old pads and hardware

  • Remove the inner and outer pads from the bracket by hand. If stuck, gently pry with a flat-blade screwdriver.
  • Remove the pad abutment clips (hardware) from the bracket.

Step 8: Clean and prep the bracket

  • Spray the bracket pad contact areas with brake parts cleaner.
  • Lightly clean rust from the pad “lands” (where clips sit) using a wire brush.
  • Install new hardware clips from the kit.

Step 9: Check and lubricate slide pins

  • Pull the slide pins out of the bracket by hand (they are the smooth pins the caliper bolts screw into).
  • Wipe off old grease, then apply a thin coat of brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone).
  • Reinstall slide pins and confirm they move smoothly.

Step 10: Compress the rear caliper piston

  • Place an old brake pad against the piston face to spread pressure evenly.
  • Use a brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty) to slowly push the piston back in until it bottoms out.
  • Watch the brake fluid reservoir level; stop if it looks like it may overflow.
  • Go slow—fast compression can spill fluid.

Step 11: Install new pads

  • Apply a thin layer of brake anti-squeal compound to the pad backing plates (metal back side only). Do not get any on the pad friction material.
  • Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.

Step 12: Reinstall the caliper

  • Lower the caliper over the new pads.
  • Install the guide bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use a torque wrench and 14mm socket to tighten: Torque to 28-34 Nm (21-25 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Repeat on the other rear wheel

  • Repeat Steps 5–12 on the opposite side.
  • Both sides should be replaced as a pair.

Step 14: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

  • Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
  • Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
  • Use a torque wrench with 21mm socket to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 88-108 Nm (65-80 ft-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • With the engine off, slowly press the brake pedal 8–12 times until it feels firm. This seats the pistons against the new pads.
  • Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed (use the correct DOT brake fluid listed on the reservoir cap).
  • If equipped with EPB: exit service mode using the scan tool, then apply/release the EPB a few times to confirm normal operation.
  • Road test at low speed first. Listen for grinding and confirm the car stops straight.
  • Pad bedding (break-in): make 6–10 moderate stops from ~30 mph to ~5 mph, with cool-down between stops.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $205-$330 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3 hours.


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Guide for Disc Brake Pad Set replace for these Hyundai vehicles

Year Make ModelSub ModelEngineBody Style
2019 Hyundai Sonata-Inline 4 2.4L-
2019 Hyundai Sonata-Inline 4 2.0L-
2018 Hyundai Sonata-Inline 4 2.4L-
2018 Hyundai Sonata-Inline 4 2.0L-
2017 Hyundai Sonata-Inline 4 2.4L-
2017 Hyundai Sonata-Inline 4 2.0L-
2016 Hyundai Sonata-Inline 4 2.4L-
2016 Hyundai Sonata-Inline 4 2.0L-
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