🔧 Crosstrek - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing your rear brake pads restores safe stopping power and prevents rotor damage when the pads get thin. On your Crosstrek, the rear pads sit inside the rear brake calipers and can be swapped with basic hand tools.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on level ground and use jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• 🧤 Brake dust is irritating—wear safety glasses and a dust mask; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• 🔥 Brakes can be hot—let everything cool before touching calipers/rotors.
• 🧱 Chock the front wheels and keep the parking brake released while servicing rear brakes.
• 🔌 No battery disconnect is required for this mechanical (non-EPB) rear brake setup.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Lug nut socket 19mm
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 3/8"
• Torque wrench 1/2"
• Socket 14mm
• Ratchet 3/8"
• Open-end wrench 17mm
• C-clamp 6"
• Brake caliper hanger hook (specialty)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Disposable gloves
• Safety glasses
• Dust mask

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the CVT in P, and place wheel chocks at the front wheels.
• Release the parking brake fully (rear brakes include a small parking brake inside the rotor “hat”).
• Crack the rear lug nuts loose using a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and check brake fluid level in the reservoir; it may rise when you push the caliper pistons back in.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the rear wheels

• Lift the rear using a floor jack at the rear jacking point.
• Support the vehicle with jack stands under the rear pinch welds or approved support points.
• Remove the lug nuts with a 19mm socket and ratchet, then remove both rear wheels.

Step 2: Locate the caliper and loosen the lower slide pin bolt

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed for the rear; just position yourself for access.
• Find the rear caliper; it’s held by two “slide pin” bolts (slide pins let the caliper float and center itself on the rotor).
• Use a 14mm socket and ratchet to remove the lower slide pin bolt.

Step 3: Swing the caliper up and support it

• Pivot the caliper upward (like opening a clamshell) using gentle hand pressure.
• Hang the caliper using a brake caliper hanger hook (specialty) so it does not pull on the brake hose.
• Never let the caliper dangle by the hose.

Step 4: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Pull the inner and outer pads out of the bracket by hand; use a flathead screwdriver gently if they’re stuck.
• Remove the stainless pad clips from the bracket (these are part of the hardware kit).
• Clean the bracket pad “lands” with a wire brush, then spray with brake cleaner spray and let dry.

Step 5: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old pad against the piston face, then use a C-clamp 6" to slowly push the piston straight back into the caliper.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing; stop if it looks close to overflowing.
• Go slow to avoid damaging seals.

Step 6: Install new hardware clips and grease contact points

• Snap the new stainless clips into the bracket in the same positions as the old ones.
• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone) where the pad ears touch the clips.
• Do not get grease on the pad friction material or rotor.

Step 7: Install the new rear pads

• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.
• If one pad has a wear indicator (a small metal “squealer” tab), match it to the same side/orientation as the original set.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper and tighten the slide pin bolt

• Pivot the caliper back down over the new pads.
• Reinstall the lower slide pin bolt using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Hold the slide pin if it spins using an open-end wrench 17mm.
• Tighten the slide pin bolt with a torque wrench 3/8": Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall both rear wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench 1/2": Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Repeat on the other rear side

• Repeat Steps 2–9 for the other rear wheel.
• Replace pads on both sides as a pair.

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✅ After Repair

• 🦶 Before driving, press the brake pedal slowly 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the new pads).
• 🧴 Re-check brake fluid level and top off only if needed (use the correct DOT brake fluid listed on the reservoir cap).
• 🔍 With the wheels on, look behind each wheel to confirm the caliper is seated and there are no leaks.
• 🛣️ Bed-in the pads: do 6–10 smooth stops from ~30–40 mph down to ~5 mph, with light cooling time between stops. Avoid hard panic stops for the first 200 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $130-$410 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.8 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.