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2015 Toyota Highlander
2014 - 2019 Toyota Highlander
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2015 Toyota Highlander Rear Brake Pad change

2015 Toyota Highlander Rear Brake Pad change

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
14mm
14mm
Socket
or (17/32")
17mm
17mm
Combo Wrench
or (21/32")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
3/8
3/8
Torque Wrench
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How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2015 Toyota Highlander

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and bedding procedure for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2015 Toyota Highlander

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and bedding procedure for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019

Orion
Orion

🔧 Highlander - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

This repair replaces the rear brake pads on your Highlander. The rear caliper must be moved off the rotor, the old pads removed, and the caliper piston gently compressed so the new thicker pads fit.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on level ground and support your Highlander with jack stands before removing any wheel.
  • ⚠️ Never rely on a floor jack alone. A jack can leak down or tip.
  • ⚠️ Keep brake grease off the pad friction material and rotor faces.
  • ⚠️ Do one side at a time so the other side can be used as a reference.
  • ⚠️ The rear parking brake is a small drum-style parking brake inside the rear rotor hat; do not pry against it.
  • ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed.
  • ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 21mm lug nut socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 17mm open-end wrench
  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • Torque wrench rated 20-100 ft-lbs
  • Brake caliper piston compression tool (specialty)
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Small wire brush
  • Bungee cord
  • Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
  • Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
  • Wheel chocks
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses
  • Brake cleaner spray
  • Shop towels

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
  • Brake lubricant - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🅿️ Park your Highlander on a flat, solid surface.
  • 🧱 Place the transmission in Park and chock the front wheels with wheel chocks.
  • 🛑 Release the parking brake before servicing the rear brakes.
  • 🧴 Brake cleaner removes brake dust and oil. Use it only in a well-ventilated area.
  • 🔩 A caliper is the clamp-shaped brake part that squeezes the pads against the rotor.
  • 🔧 A torque wrench tightens bolts to the correct tightness so they are not loose or over-tightened.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Rear Lug Nuts

  • Use a 21mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to loosen each rear lug nut about half a turn.
  • Do this while the wheels are still on the ground so they do not spin.
  • Loosen only. Do not remove yet.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Rear of the Highlander

  • Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum at the rear center jacking point or approved rear lift point.
  • Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the approved rear support points.
  • Gently lower your Highlander onto the jack stands.
  • Use your hands to lightly shake the vehicle. It should feel stable before you continue.

Step 3: Remove the Rear Wheels

  • Use the 21mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the loosened lug nuts.
  • Remove both rear wheels and place them flat under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Remove the Rear Caliper Slide Pin Bolts

  • Look at the back of the rear brake caliper.
  • Use a 14mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the lower caliper slide pin bolt.
  • If the slide pin spins, hold the pin with a 17mm open-end wrench while loosening the bolt with the 14mm socket.
  • Remove the upper caliper slide pin bolt the same way.
  • A slide pin is the smooth pin that lets the caliper move side-to-side as the pads wear.

Step 5: Lift Off and Support the Caliper

  • Carefully lift the caliper off the brake pads and rotor by hand.
  • If it feels stuck, use a flat-blade screwdriver to gently wiggle the caliper free.
  • Hang the caliper from the suspension using a bungee cord.
  • Do not let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose.

Step 6: Remove the Old Brake Pads and Hardware

  • Pull the inner and outer brake pads out of the caliper bracket by hand.
  • Use a flat-blade screwdriver to remove the old stainless pad clips from the bracket.
  • These clips are called abutment hardware. They let the pads slide smoothly.
  • Use a small wire brush to clean the bracket areas where the clips sit.
  • Spray the area with brake cleaner spray and wipe with shop towels.

Step 7: Install the New Pad Hardware

  • Install the new rear brake pad hardware kit clips into the caliper bracket by hand.
  • Make sure each clip sits fully flat and locked in place.
  • Apply a thin film of brake lubricant to the pad contact areas on the clips.
  • Do not put grease on the rotor or pad friction surface.
  • A thin film is enough.

Step 8: Compress the Rear Caliper Piston

  • Check the brake fluid reservoir under the hood. If it is very full, place shop towels around it in case fluid rises.
  • Use a brake caliper piston compression tool to slowly push the caliper piston straight back into the caliper bore.
  • Move slowly. This prevents brake fluid from being forced back too quickly.
  • The piston face should sit fully retracted and even.

Step 9: Install the New Rear Brake Pads

  • Install the new rear brake pad set into the caliper bracket by hand.
  • Make sure the pad friction material faces the rotor.
  • Slide each pad back and forth slightly to confirm it moves freely in the new clips.
  • If a pad binds, remove it and check that the hardware clip is seated correctly.

Step 10: Reinstall the Rear Caliper

  • Lower the caliper over the new pads by hand.
  • Use the 14mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to start both caliper slide pin bolts by hand first.
  • If the slide pin turns, hold it with a 17mm open-end wrench.
  • Use the torque wrench rated 20-100 ft-lbs and 14mm socket to tighten the caliper slide pin bolts.
  • Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs)

Step 11: Repeat on the Other Rear Side

  • Repeat Steps 4 through 10 on the opposite rear brake.
  • Use the same 14mm socket, 17mm open-end wrench, brake caliper piston compression tool, and torque wrench rated 20-100 ft-lbs.
  • Replace rear pads in pairs only. Never replace just one side.

Step 12: Reinstall the Rear Wheels

  • Place each rear wheel back onto the hub by hand.
  • Install the lug nuts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use the 21mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 13: Lower the Vehicle and Torque Lug Nuts

  • Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to raise your Highlander slightly off the jack stands.
  • Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
  • Lower the vehicle until the tires touch the ground fully.
  • Use the torque wrench rated 20-100 ft-lbs and 21mm lug nut socket to torque the lug nuts in a star pattern.
  • Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs)

Step 14: Pump the Brake Pedal

  • Sit in the driver seat and press the brake pedal slowly 5-8 times.
  • The pedal may go low at first. It should become firm after several pumps.
  • Do not drive until the brake pedal feels firm.

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Check the brake fluid reservoir and make sure the fluid level is between MIN and MAX.
  • ✅ Start your Highlander and press the brake pedal again. It should feel firm and steady.
  • ✅ Check both rear calipers for leaks or loose parts.
  • ✅ Reapply and release the parking brake to confirm it works normally.
  • ✅ Test drive slowly in a safe area before normal driving.
  • ✅ Bed in the pads with 8-10 gentle stops from about 30 mph, letting the brakes cool briefly between stops.
  • ✅ Avoid hard braking for the first 100-200 miles unless needed for safety.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $130-$330 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.


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