🔧 WRX - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, swing the rear brake calipers out of the way, swap the old pads for new ones, then reassemble and test. Rear pads wear over time, and replacing them restores safe stopping and reduces noise and rotor damage.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the car on jack stands; never rely on the jack alone.
• ⚠️ Chock the front wheels and leave the transmission in 1st gear so the car can’t roll.
• ⚠️ Keep the parking brake released while working on the rear brakes.
• ⚠️ Don’t press the brake pedal with a caliper removed; the piston can pop out.
• ⚠️ Avoid breathing brake dust; use brake cleaner and wear a mask.
• ⚠️ Brake parts get hot; let everything cool before you start.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs range)
• C-clamp brake piston compressor
• Brake caliper hanger hook
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware/clip kit - Qty: 1
• High-temp silicone brake grease - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
• DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 (as needed)

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧰 Park on level ground, set the transmission in 1st gear, and place wheel chocks in front of both front tires.
• 🧰 Release the parking brake (rear brakes won’t move freely if it’s applied).
• 🧰 Pop the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; you may need to remove a little fluid if it rises when you compress the pistons.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen rear wheel lug nuts

• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the rear lug nuts about 1/2 turn while the car is on the ground.

Step 2: Lift and support the rear of the car

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the rear of the car at the proper rear jacking point.
• Set the car down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and gently rock the car to confirm it’s stable.

Step 3: Remove the rear wheels

• Use a 19mm socket and ratchet to remove the lug nuts, then remove both rear wheels.

Step 4: Remove the caliper slider bolts

• Locate the rear brake caliper (the part that “clamps” the rotor).
• Use a 14mm socket and ratchet to remove the two caliper slider bolts.
• Tip: Keep bolts in left/right piles.

Step 5: Swing the caliper up and hang it

• Use a flat-blade screwdriver to gently pry the caliper away from the pads if it’s tight.
• Swing the caliper off the pads and support it with a brake caliper hanger hook.
• Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose.

Step 6: Remove old pads and hardware

• Slide the old pads out by hand; if stuck, use a flat-blade screwdriver gently.
• Remove the stainless pad clips/hardware from the bracket.
• Use brake cleaner spray and shop towels to clean the bracket and pad contact areas.

Step 7: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old pad against the piston face.
• Use a C-clamp brake piston compressor to slowly push the piston back into the caliper.
• Check the brake fluid reservoir under the hood as you compress; remove a small amount if it gets too high.

Step 8: Clean and grease the contact points

• Use a wire brush to remove rust buildup where the pad clips sit.
• Install the new clips/hardware.
• Apply a thin film of high-temp silicone brake grease to the pad “ears” where they slide on the clips.
• Tip: Don’t grease the pad friction surface.

Step 9: Install the new pads

• Slide the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.
• Make sure the pads move freely; if they bind, re-clean the bracket/clip seating area.

Step 10: Reinstall the caliper

• Lower the caliper back over the new pads.
• Install the slider bolts by hand first, then tighten using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs)

Step 11: Repeat on the other rear side

• Repeat Steps 4–10 on the other rear wheel.

Step 12: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall both rear wheels and hand-thread all lug nuts.
• Lower the car using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Use a torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs range) with a 19mm socket to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ With the engine OFF, slowly pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the new pads).
• ✅ Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
• ✅ Do a slow test drive in a safe area; confirm normal braking and no pulling/noises.
• ✅ Bed-in (break-in) the pads: make 8–10 medium stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph, allowing a little cooling between stops.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$150 (parts only)

You Save: $190-$300 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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