🔧 Rogue - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll be replacing the rear brake pads and related hardware on your Rogue. This restores braking performance and stops grinding or squealing caused by worn pads.

Difficulty Level: Beginner-Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Always support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely only on a floor jack.
• 🛑 Work on a flat, solid surface and keep the transmission in PARK with the parking brake released.
• 🛑 Wear safety glasses and mechanic gloves; brake dust and cleaners can irritate eyes and skin.
• 🛑 Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is off the rotor; this can push the piston out.
• 🛑 Brake cleaner is flammable and harmful to breathe; use it in a well-ventilated area and keep away from flames.
• 🛑 Your Rogue uses a cable-operated parking brake with small brake shoes inside the rotor “hat”; avoid getting grease on those shoes.
• 🛑 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 🧰 Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 🧰 Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, Qty: 2)
• 🧰 Wheel chocks
• 🧰 Breaker bar 1/2"
• 🧰 Torque wrench 3/8" or 1/2" drive (10–150 ft-lbs range)
• 🧰 21mm socket (for wheel lug nuts)
• 🧰 14mm socket (rear caliper slide pin bolts)
• 🧰 18mm socket (rear caliper bracket bolts)
• 🧰 3/8" ratchet
• 🧰 1/2" ratchet
• 🧰 Short extension 3/8"
• 🧰 C-clamp (6" or larger) or disc brake caliper compressor tool (specialty)
• 🧰 Flathead screwdriver (medium)
• 🧰 Needle-nose pliers
• 🧰 Wire brush (small)
• 🧰 Bungee cord or strong wire (to hang caliper)
• 🧰 Shop rags
• 🧰 Safety glasses
• 🧰 Mechanic gloves
• 🧰 Disposable mask (for dust)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 🔩 Rear brake pad set (left and right) - Qty: 1 set (replace in pairs)
• 🔩 Rear brake pad hardware kit (anti-rattle clips / shims) - Qty: 1 set
• 🔩 High-temperature brake grease - Qty: 1 small tube
• 🔩 Brake cleaner spray - Qty: 1-2 cans
• 🔩 Dielectric or silicone grease - Qty: 1 small tube (optional, for slide pins if not included)
• 🔩 Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2 (optional but recommended if worn, grooved, or below spec)
• 🔩 Caliper bracket bolts - Qty: 4 (optional, if originals are badly corroded)
• 🔩 Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1 small packet (optional, for hub face)
• 🔩 Paper towels or shop towels - Qty: several

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Rogue on level ground, shift to PARK, and release the parking brake completely.
• Place wheel chocks in front of both front wheels to keep the vehicle from rolling.
• Loosen (do not remove) the rear wheel lug nuts with a 21mm socket and breaker bar while the vehicle is still on the ground.
• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; remove the cap and place it loosely on top. This lets fluid move when you push the caliper pistons back. Place a rag around the reservoir.
• If the reservoir is very full, remove a small amount with a clean syringe or turkey baster into a container so it does not overflow when compressing pistons.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the rear of the Rogue

• Position the floor jack under the rear center jacking point (typically on the rear subframe just ahead of the rear differential area). Lift until both rear wheels are off the ground.
• Place jack stands under the reinforced pinch welds on both sides near the rear doors. Slowly lower the vehicle onto the stands using the floor jack.
• Give the vehicle a gentle push to confirm it is stable on the stands before going underneath.
• Remove both rear wheels using a 21mm socket and ratchet or breaker bar. Set wheels aside.

Step 2: Inspect the brake assembly

• Look at the rear rotor, caliper, and pads to understand how they sit together. The caliper straddles the rotor and holds the pads.
• Verify the parking brake is still fully released; the small cable going to the rear caliper bracket should not be tight.

Step 3: Remove the rear caliper slide pin bolts

• Locate the two caliper slide pin bolts on the back of the caliper (upper and lower).
• Use a 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to remove the upper and lower slide pin bolts.
• Set the bolts aside where you will not lose them; note which one is upper and which is lower if they differ.

Step 4: Swing off and support the caliper

• Gently pry the caliper away from the rotor using a flathead screwdriver if needed.
• Lift the caliper up and off the pads and rotor.
• Hang the caliper from the suspension spring or a solid point with a bungee cord or wire. Do not let it hang by the rubber brake hose.

Step 5: Remove the old brake pads and hardware

• Slide the inner and outer brake pads out of the caliper bracket by hand. You may need a flathead screwdriver to gently pry them free if they are stuck.
• Remove the metal pad clips (hardware) from the caliper bracket using needle-nose pliers if they do not pull off easily.
• Note how the wear indicator tab on the old pad was oriented; the new pad should match this orientation.

Step 6: Remove caliper bracket and rotor (if replacing rotors)

• If you are only replacing pads and not rotors, you can skip to Step 7.
• Use an 18mm socket and 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar to remove the two caliper bracket bolts at the back of the bracket.
• Remove the caliper bracket and set it aside.
• Slide the rotor off the hub. If it is stuck from rust, tap around the hat area with a rubber mallet.
• Clean the hub face with a wire brush to remove rust. Apply a very thin layer of anti-seize compound if desired, avoiding the wheel studs.
• Install the new rotor onto the hub and hold it with a couple of lug nuts threaded on by hand to keep it seated.
• Reinstall the caliper bracket using an 18mm socket and torque wrench. Torque to 98 Nm (72 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Clean and prepare the caliper bracket

• Use a wire brush and brake cleaner to clean the areas of the caliper bracket where the pad hardware clips sit.
• Allow the bracket to dry completely.
• Install the new metal hardware clips from your hardware kit into the caliper bracket by pressing them into place by hand.
• Apply a very thin film of high-temperature brake grease on the surfaces of the clips where the pads will slide. Do not get grease on rotor or pad friction material.

Step 8: Check and grease caliper slide pins

• Pull the slide pins out of the caliper bracket by hand or using needle-nose pliers if necessary. Note each pin’s position and orientation.
• Wipe off old grease and dirt with a rag.
• Apply fresh silicone or brake-specific grease to each pin and reinsert them into the rubber boots, making sure they slide smoothly.
• The pins should move freely; if one is stuck, work it back and forth until smooth or replace it if badly corroded.

Step 9: Compress the caliper piston

• Place one of the old brake pads against the caliper piston face.
• Position a C-clamp or disc brake caliper compressor tool between the back of the caliper housing and the old pad.
• Slowly tighten the C-clamp or tool to push the piston back into the caliper until it is fully seated and flush with the caliper body.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir under the hood to ensure it does not overflow; remove excess fluid if needed.

Step 10: Install the new brake pads

• Compare new pads to the old ones to confirm shape and size match.
• Lightly coat the pad “ears” (where they touch the hardware clips) with high-temperature brake grease. Do not get grease on the pad friction surface.
• Install the inner and outer pads into the caliper bracket, pressing them into the new hardware clips until they seat firmly.
• Ensure any wear indicator tab is installed in the same position as the old inner pad (usually on the inner side, leading edge of rotor rotation).

Step 11: Reinstall the caliper over the new pads

• Lower the caliper down over the new pads and rotor, making sure it is not twisted and the hose is not kinked.
• Align the caliper slide pin holes with the slide pins in the bracket.
• Install the upper and lower caliper slide pin bolts by hand, then tighten with a 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
• Use a torque wrench and 14mm socket to tighten the slide pin bolts to spec: Torque to 25 Nm (19 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Repeat for the other rear wheel

• Repeat Steps 3–11 on the other rear side so both sides are done together.
• Always replace brake pads in axle pairs.

Step 13: Reinstall wheels and lower the Rogue

• Install the rear wheels and thread the lug nuts on by hand.
• Use a 21mm socket and ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern while the vehicle is still on stands.
• Raise the vehicle slightly using the floor jack, remove the jack stands, then lower the vehicle to the ground.
• Use a torque wrench and 21mm socket to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Final checks and clean-up

• Spray any greasy or dusty areas with brake cleaner and wipe with a shop rag, keeping cleaner off painted body surfaces.
• Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir and adjust to the “MAX” line if needed.
• Reinstall and tighten the brake fluid reservoir cap.

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✅ After Repair

• Press the brake pedal slowly 10–15 times before driving. This seats the pads against the rotors and restores normal pedal feel.
• With the engine running, check that the brake pedal feels firm and does not sink to the floor.
• Engage and release the parking brake a few times to ensure it works correctly and the wheels still rotate freely when released.
• Take a short, gentle test drive: start with low speeds, use light to moderate braking, and listen for any unusual noises.
• Follow a short pad break-in (bedding) procedure: make 5–10 smooth stops from about 30–40 km/h down to 10 km/h, allowing a bit of cooling time between stops. Avoid hard emergency-style stops at first.
• After the test drive, recheck the lug nut torque with a torque wrench and inspect for any leaks or loose parts.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$400 (parts + labor) for rear pads, more if rotors are replaced

DIY Cost: $70-$160 (parts only, pads and hardware; add more if you replace rotors)

You Save: $180-$240 or more by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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