🔧 Impreza - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the rear brake pads restores safe stopping and prevents rotor damage when pads get thin. On your Impreza, the rear caliper piston must be pushed back in so the new, thicker pads fit.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and use jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Release the parking brake before starting (rear brakes can bind if it’s on).
• ⚠️ Do not breathe brake dust; use brake cleaner to wet/clean parts.
• ⚠️ Don’t press the brake pedal while the caliper is off the rotor.
• ⚠️ Watch brake fluid level—pushing pistons in can overflow the reservoir.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (10–200 Nm range)
• 14mm socket
• 14mm wrench
• 17mm socket
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• C-clamp (6")
• Brake caliper hanger hook
• Wire brush
• Shop rags
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 1
• Silicone brake grease - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, transmission in P, and place wheel chocks at the front wheels.
• Make sure the parking brake is fully released.
• Pop the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir level; if it’s near MAX, be ready to soak up a little with a rag as the pistons are pushed in.
• C-clamp = screw clamp that pushes the piston in.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and lift the rear

• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to crack the rear wheel lug nuts loose about 1/2 turn (don’t remove yet).
• Use a floor jack to lift the rear of the car at the proper rear jacking point.
• Set the car down securely on jack stands.
• Remove the wheels using the 19mm socket.

Step 2: Locate the rear caliper and remove the lower caliper bolt

• Turn the steering wheel straight (rear work is easier with wheels off).
• On one rear corner, find the caliper (the part that squeezes the pads on the rotor).
• Use a 14mm socket to remove the lower caliper slide pin bolt.
• If the slide pin spins, hold it with a 14mm wrench while loosening with the 14mm socket.

Step 3: Swing the caliper up and remove the old pads

• Carefully pivot the caliper upward (hinging on the top slide pin).
• Use a brake caliper hanger hook to support the caliper. Never let it hang by the hose.
• Slide the old inner and outer pads out by hand; use a flat-blade screwdriver gently if they’re stuck.

Step 4: Remove/replace pad hardware and clean the bracket

• Remove the stainless pad clips (hardware) from the bracket.
• Use brake parts cleaner and a wire brush to clean the bracket “pad lands” (where the clips sit).
• Install the new hardware clips from the kit (press them fully into place).

Step 5: Compress the caliper piston

• Place one of the old pads against the piston face.
• Use a C-clamp (6") to slowly push the piston back into the caliper until it bottoms.
• Go slow and watch the brake fluid reservoir level under the hood.

Step 6: Lubricate the contact points (not the pad friction material)

• Apply a thin film of silicone brake grease to the pad ears where they slide in the clips.
• Apply a thin film of silicone brake grease to the pad backing plate contact points where the caliper touches.
• Keep grease off the rotor and pad face.

Step 7: Install the new pads

• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.
• They should slide smoothly; if tight, re-clean the bracket lands with brake parts cleaner and the wire brush.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper and torque the slide pin bolt

• Pivot the caliper back down over the new pads.
• Reinstall the lower slide pin bolt using a 14mm socket (hold the pin with a 14mm wrench if needed).
• Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.

Step 9: Repeat on the other rear side

• Do the same procedure on the opposite rear wheel.
• Always replace brake pads in pairs.

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
• Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• With the car on the ground, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm.
• Check the brake fluid reservoir and top off only if needed (correct DOT rating is printed on the reservoir cap).
• Do a low-speed test in a safe area: confirm normal braking and no pulling/noise.
• Pad bed-in (typical): make 6–10 moderate stops from ~35 mph down to ~5 mph, allowing short cool-down between stops. Don’t hold the pedal hard at a complete stop right after.
• Re-check for any leaks and verify both rear wheels spin freely with the parking brake released.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $210-$330 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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