🔧 Yukon - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the rear brake pads on your Yukon involves lifting the rear, removing the caliper, swapping pads (and usually the pad hardware clips), then reassembling and bedding-in the pads. Doing it correctly prevents noise, uneven wear, and braking pull.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and use jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Release the parking brake before starting; the rear parking brake is mechanical and can fight you during service.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed; the piston can pop out and leak.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ If you open the brake fluid reservoir, keep dirt out and don’t overfill; fluid can overflow when pistons are pushed back.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 22mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (50-200 ft-lbs range)
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-50 ft-lbs range)
• 13mm socket
• 18mm socket
• C-clamp (6" minimum) or disc brake piston compressor tool
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware/clip kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and chock the front wheels.
• Make sure the parking brake is fully released.
• Crack the rear lug nuts loose 1/2 turn using a 22mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Pop the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir level; pushing pistons back can raise fluid level.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the rear at a safe jacking point.
• Set the vehicle down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove both rear wheels using a 22mm socket and 1/2" drive breaker bar.
• Doing both sides helps match pad wear.

Step 2: Locate the rear caliper and hardware

• Find the brake caliper (the “clamp” over the rotor) and the caliper bracket (the larger mount behind it).
• Inspect the rotor surface and check for deep grooves or heavy rust lips.

Step 3: Remove the caliper guide pin bolts

• Use a 13mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the two caliper guide pin bolts.
• Carefully lift the caliper off the bracket. If it’s tight, gently pry with a flat-blade screwdriver.
• Support the caliper with a bungee cord so it does not hang by the brake hose.

Step 4: Remove the old pads and hardware clips

• Slide the old pads out of the bracket by hand.
• Remove the stainless pad hardware clips from the bracket using a flat-blade screwdriver.
• Clean the bracket pad “shelves” (where clips sit) using a wire brush and brake cleaner spray.

Step 5: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old pad against the piston face, then use a C-clamp (6" minimum) or disc brake piston compressor tool to slowly push the piston straight back in.
• A piston compressor is a tool that pushes the piston back evenly so new, thicker pads fit.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing; stop if it looks like it will overflow.

Step 6: Install new hardware clips and grease contact points

• Install the new hardware clips into the bracket by hand (snap them fully into place).
• Apply a thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone) where the pad “ears” touch the clips.
• Do not get grease on the pad friction material or rotor face; clean with brake cleaner spray if contaminated.

Step 7: Install the new pads

• Slide the new pads into the bracket by hand, confirming they move freely without binding.
• If a pad has a wear indicator, match it to the same position as the old set came off.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper

• Lower the supported caliper back over the new pads.
• Install the caliper guide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Torque to 31 Nm (23 ft-lbs) using a 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-50 ft-lbs range).

Step 9: Repeat on the other rear side

• Repeat Steps 3–8 on the opposite rear wheel.
• Replace pads in pairs for balanced braking.

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall both rear wheels by hand-starting lug nuts.
• Lower the Yukon off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a 22mm socket and 1/2" drive torque wrench.
• Torque to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine off, pump the brake pedal slowly 10–15 times until it feels firm.
• Check the brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
• Test at low speed first. Confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• Bed-in the pads: do 6–10 moderate stops from ~30–40 mph, letting brakes cool a minute between stops; avoid hard panic stops for the first 150–200 miles.
• Re-check lug nut torque after 50–100 miles using a 1/2" drive torque wrench.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $130-$405 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.