🔧 Tucson - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

This repair replaces the rear brake pads on your Tucson. Rear pads wear down over time and should be replaced before the friction material gets too thin, which can damage the rotors.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground only, and support your Tucson with jack stands before removing any wheel.
• ⚠️ Do not rely on a floor jack alone. A floor jack lifts the vehicle; jack stands safely hold it up.
• ⚠️ Rear brake dust can be harmful. Wear safety glasses and gloves, and do not blow dust with compressed air.
• ⚠️ Your Tucson uses a mechanical parking brake inside the rear rotor hat, not an electronic parking brake, so no scan-tool retraction is needed.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while the rear caliper is removed.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm lug nut socket
• Ratchet wrench 3/8-inch drive
• 14mm socket
• 17mm open-end wrench
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 3/8-inch drive
• Disc brake pad spreader tool (specialty)
• C-clamp 6-inch
• Flathead screwdriver 1/4-inch tip
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop towels
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper slide pin grease - Qty: 1
• Brake lubricant - Qty: 1
• DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid - Qty: 1 small bottle

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park your Tucson on a flat surface and place the transmission in Park.
• 🧱 Chock the front wheels with wheel chocks so the vehicle cannot roll.
• 🛑 Release the parking brake before lifting the rear. The parking brake works inside the rear rotor, and it can hold the rear brakes tight.
• 🧤 Put on safety glasses and gloves before working around brake dust.
• 🧪 Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir under the hood. If it is completely full, remove a small amount with a clean shop towel or fluid-safe suction tool before compressing the caliper piston.
• 📌 A brake caliper is the clamp that squeezes the pads against the rotor to stop the vehicle.
• 📌 A caliper piston is the round part inside the caliper that pushes the brake pad.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Rear Lug Nuts

• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar or torque wrench to loosen each rear lug nut about half a turn while the tires are still on the ground.
• Do not fully remove the lug nuts yet.
• Break them loose before lifting.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Rear

• Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the rear center lift point or one rear side pinch weld lift point.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the approved rear support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Lightly shake the vehicle by hand to confirm it is stable before working underneath or beside it.

Step 3: Remove the Rear Wheels

• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and ratchet wrench 1/2-inch drive to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove both rear wheels and set them flat on the ground.
• Place the lug nuts somewhere clean so dirt does not get on the threads.

Step 4: Inspect the Brake Assembly

• Look at the caliper, rotor, brake hose, and pad thickness before taking anything apart.
• Use safety glasses and mechanic gloves while inspecting the brakes.
• If the rotor has deep grooves, heavy rust, or a pulsing brake pedal was present, the rear rotors should be serviced or replaced with the pads.

Step 5: Remove the Lower Caliper Slide Bolt

• Use the 17mm open-end wrench to hold the caliper slide pin still.
• Use the 14mm socket and ratchet wrench 3/8-inch drive to remove the lower caliper slide bolt.
• A slide pin lets the caliper move side-to-side so both pads wear evenly.

Step 6: Swing the Caliper Up

• Use your hand to rotate the caliper upward off the brake pads.
• If it is stuck, use the flathead screwdriver 1/4-inch tip gently between the old pad and rotor to create a small amount of space.
• Do not pull hard on the rubber brake hose.
• Never let the caliper hang by the hose.

Step 7: Remove the Old Brake Pads

• Use your hands to slide the old inner and outer brake pads out of the caliper bracket.
• If the pads are stuck, use the flathead screwdriver 1/4-inch tip to gently pry them out.
• Note the position of any wear indicator clip so the new pad is installed the same way.

Step 8: Remove and Clean the Pad Hardware

• Use the flathead screwdriver 1/4-inch tip to remove the old stainless pad clips from the caliper bracket.
• Use the wire brush to clean rust and dirt from the bracket surfaces where the clips sit.
• Use brake cleaner spray and shop towels to clean the area.
• Brake pad hardware means the small metal clips that help the pads slide smoothly.

Step 9: Install New Pad Hardware

• Use your hands to snap the new rear brake pad hardware kit clips into the caliper bracket.
• Make sure each clip sits fully flat and does not rock or pop loose.
• Apply a thin layer of brake lubricant to the pad contact areas on the clips using a gloved finger.
• Do not get lubricant on the rotor or pad friction surface.

Step 10: Compress the Caliper Piston

• Place one old brake pad against the caliper piston.
• Use the disc brake pad spreader tool (specialty) or C-clamp 6-inch to slowly press the piston fully back into the caliper.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir under the hood while compressing the piston so it does not overflow.
• If fluid gets too high, remove excess with a clean shop towel.
• Go slowly to protect seals.

Step 11: Lubricate the Slide Pin

• Pull the lower slide pin out by hand if it moves freely.
• Wipe the pin clean with shop towels.
• Apply a light coat of brake caliper slide pin grease to the smooth part of the pin.
• Push the pin back into the rubber boot by hand.
• If a pin is seized, torn, or rusty, replace the slide pin and boot before driving.

Step 12: Install the New Rear Brake Pads

• Use your hands to slide the new inner and outer rear pads into the new hardware clips.
• The pad friction material must face the rotor.
• Apply a thin layer of brake lubricant to the backing plate contact points only.
• Do not put grease on the friction material.

Step 13: Reinstall the Caliper

• Rotate the caliper down over the new pads by hand.
• If it does not fit, use the disc brake pad spreader tool (specialty) or C-clamp 6-inch to confirm the piston is fully compressed.
• Install the lower caliper slide bolt by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the 17mm open-end wrench to hold the slide pin and the 14mm socket with torque wrench 3/8-inch drive to tighten the bolt.
• Torque to 22-32 Nm (16-24 ft-lbs)

Step 14: Repeat on the Other Rear Side

• Use the same 14mm socket, 17mm open-end wrench, flathead screwdriver 1/4-inch tip, and disc brake pad spreader tool (specialty) on the opposite rear brake.
• Always replace rear brake pads in pairs.

Step 15: Reinstall the Rear Wheels

• Put each rear wheel back on the hub by hand.
• Thread all lug nuts by hand first.
• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and ratchet wrench 1/2-inch drive to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 16: Lower and Torque the Wheels

• Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the rear slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Lower your Tucson until the tires touch the ground enough to stop spinning.
• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Torque to 88-107 Nm (65-79 ft-lbs)
• Lower the vehicle fully.

Step 17: Pump the Brake Pedal

• Sit in the driver seat and press the brake pedal slowly 5-10 times until it feels firm.
• This moves the caliper pistons back out against the new pads.
• Do not drive until the pedal feels firm.

Step 18: Check Brake Fluid Level

• Open the hood and inspect the brake fluid reservoir.
• Use DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid only if the level is below the MIN mark.
• Do not overfill above the MAX mark.
• Wipe any spilled fluid immediately with shop towels because brake fluid can damage paint.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Before moving, confirm the brake pedal is firm.
• ✅ Test the brakes at very low speed in a safe area.
• ✅ Listen for grinding, scraping, or clunking noises.
• ✅ Recheck the rear wheels for heat or burning smell after a short drive. One side much hotter than the other can mean a sticking caliper or slide pin.
• ✅ Bed in the new pads with 8-10 moderate stops from about 30 mph down to 5 mph. Do not come to a complete stop with hot brakes unless necessary.
• ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles using the 21mm lug nut socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$330 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$110 (parts only)

You Save: $135-$220 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.

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