🔧 Forester - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll be removing the rear calipers, swapping the old pads for new ones, and compressing the caliper pistons so everything fits back together. Replacing pads on time keeps stopping power strong and prevents rotor damage.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🧯 Work on a flat surface and support your Forester with jack stands, not just a jack.
• 🧤 Brake dust is harmful—wear a mask and avoid blowing dust with compressed air.
• 🔥 Brakes get very hot—let everything cool before touching the caliper/rotor.
• 🛑 Keep the parking brake released while doing rear pad work (it’s a separate drum-style parking brake inside the rear rotor hat).
• 🔌 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• Ratchet
• Breaker bar
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Torque wrench (10–200 Nm range)
• C-clamp brake piston compressor
• Flathead screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Disposable gloves
• Safety glasses
• Dust mask

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and place wheel chocks at the front wheels.
• Release the parking brake fully.
• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to loosen rear lug nuts 1/2 turn before lifting.
• Open the hood and check the brake fluid level; if it’s near MAX, be ready to remove a little fluid (pads pushing back can raise the level).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Use a floor jack to lift the rear at the approved jacking point.
• Set the vehicle onto jack stands and gently shake the vehicle to confirm it’s stable.
• Remove the rear wheels using a 21mm socket and ratchet.

Step 2: Locate the caliper and remove the lower slide pin bolt

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed for the rear; just position yourself for access.
• Use a 14mm socket and ratchet to remove the lower caliper slide pin bolt.
• If the slide pin wants to spin, hold it carefully with needle-nose pliers while loosening.

Step 3: Swing the caliper up and remove old pads

• Pivot the caliper upward off the pads.
• Support the caliper with a bungee cord so it doesn’t hang by the brake hose.
• Remove the inner and outer brake pads by hand. Use a flathead screwdriver gently if they’re stuck.
• Take a quick photo for reassembly.

Step 4: Remove and replace the pad hardware clips

• Pull the stainless pad clips (abutment clips) out of the bracket.
• Clean the clip seats on the bracket using brake cleaner spray and a wire brush.
• Install the new clips from the hardware kit in the same positions.

Step 5: Check and service the slide pins

• Pull each slide pin out of the caliper bracket by hand.
• Wipe old grease off, then apply a thin coat of brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone).
• Reinsert the pins and confirm they move smoothly (they should slide in/out easily).

Step 6: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old pad against the piston face.
• Use a C-clamp brake piston compressor to slowly push the piston straight back into the caliper.
• Go slowly and watch the brake fluid reservoir under the hood so it doesn’t overflow.
• Slow compression helps protect seals.

Step 7: Install the new pads

• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.
• Make sure the pads slide freely in the new clips (no binding).
• If your pads include wear indicators, install them in the same position as the originals.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper and tighten bolts

• Swing the caliper down over the new pads.
• Reinstall the lower slide pin bolt using a 14mm socket and torque wrench.
• Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs)
• If you removed both slide pin bolts (top and bottom), torque both to the same spec.

Step 9: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle using the floor jack.
• Use a torque wrench to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs)

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine off, slowly pump the brake pedal 8–12 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the new pads).
• Check brake fluid level and top off if needed (use the correct brake fluid listed on the reservoir cap).
• Do a low-speed test in a safe area: confirm normal pedal feel and no pulling/noise.
• Pad bedding (recommended): make 6–8 gentle stops from ~50 km/h (30 mph) down to ~10 km/h (6 mph), driving a bit between stops to cool.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹4,000-₹9,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: ₹1,800-₹5,000 (parts only)

You Save: ₹2,200-₹4,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run ₹1,000-₹2,500/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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