How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2014 Mazda CX-5 (Rear Caliper Wind-Back Guide)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and key torque specs for 2013, 2014, 2015
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2014 Mazda CX-5 (Rear Caliper Wind-Back Guide)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and key torque specs for 2013, 2014, 2015
🔧 CX-5 - Rear Brake Pad Replacement
Your CX-5’s rear brake pads wear down over time and need replacement to keep braking safe and quiet. On the rear, the caliper piston usually must be turned while being pushed in because the parking brake mechanism is built into the caliper.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5–3.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on level ground; use jack stands—never rely on the jack alone.
- ⚠️ Release the parking brake before starting (rear calipers won’t retract correctly if it’s applied).
- ⚠️ Brake dust is unhealthy—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
- ⚠️ Brake fluid can damage paint—protect fenders and wipe spills immediately.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Lug wrench or 21mm socket
- Ratchet
- Torque wrench (20–150 ft-lbs range)
- 14mm socket
- 17mm socket
- Breaker bar
- Brake caliper piston wind-back tool (specialty)
- Small flathead screwdriver
- Wire brush
- Bungee cord or mechanic’s wire
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Rear pad hardware kit (abutment clips/shims) - Qty: 1
- Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 1
- High-temperature silicone brake grease - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and chock the front wheels.
- Make sure the parking brake is fully released.
- Pop the hood and check the brake fluid level—when you retract pistons, the level can rise.
- “Wind-back tool” rotates and presses the piston in.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and lift the rear
- Use a lug wrench or 21mm socket to loosen the rear lug nuts about 1/2 turn (don’t remove yet).
- Use a floor jack to lift the rear at the proper jacking point, then set the vehicle on jack stands.
- Remove the lug nuts with the 21mm socket and take the wheel off.
Step 2: Locate the rear caliper and inspect
- Look at the caliper, pads, and rotor.
- If the rotor is heavily grooved or deeply rust-pitted, plan on replacing rotors too (pads alone may not fix noise/pulsation).
Step 3: Remove the caliper (do not let it hang)
- Use a 14mm socket and ratchet to remove the caliper slide pin bolts.
- Lift the caliper off the bracket.
- Support the caliper with a bungee cord or mechanic’s wire so it doesn’t pull on the brake hose.
Step 4: Remove old pads and hardware
- Remove the pads from the bracket by hand; use a small flathead screwdriver if they’re stuck.
- Remove the stainless hardware/abutment clips (usually part of the hardware kit).
- Spray the bracket pad lands with brake parts cleaner and scrub with a wire brush until smooth.
Step 5: Retract the rear caliper piston (turn + push)
- Install the brake caliper piston wind-back tool (specialty) on the piston face.
- Turn the piston while applying inward pressure until it bottoms out.
- Watch the brake fluid reservoir while doing this; if it’s getting too full, remove a little fluid safely.
- Go slow to avoid damaging the caliper.
Step 6: Install new hardware and pads
- Install new abutment clips from the hardware kit onto the bracket.
- Apply a thin film of high-temperature silicone brake grease to the pad “ears” where they touch the clips (not on pad friction material).
- Install the new pads into the bracket in the same positions as the originals.
Step 7: Reinstall the caliper and torque fasteners
- Place the caliper back over the pads.
- Install the caliper slide bolts using a 14mm socket, then tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 25–35 Nm (18–26 ft-lbs).
- If you removed the caliper bracket (only if needed), reinstall bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and torque wrench: Torque to 70–90 Nm (52–66 ft-lbs).
Step 8: Reinstall wheel and torque lug nuts
- Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread lug nuts.
- Lower the vehicle off the stands using the floor jack.
- Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
Step 9: Repeat on the other rear wheel
- Repeat Steps 1–8 for the other side. Replace rear pads as a pair.
✅ After Repair
- With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm.
- Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed (use the correct DOT fluid listed on the reservoir cap).
- Do a slow test drive and confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
- Pad bed-in: make 6–10 moderate stops from ~30–40 mph with cool-down time between stops (avoid hard stops at first).
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: ₹6,000–₹12,000 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: ₹2,500–₹6,000 (parts only)
You Save: ₹3,500–₹6,000 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run ₹1,000–₹2,500/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0–1.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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