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2014 Kia Optima
2014 Kia Optima
Limited - Inline 4 2.0L
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  • Guides
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  • Kia Optima
  • /
  • 2014
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  • How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2014 Kia Optima (Rear Caliper Wind-Back Guide)
2014 Kia Optima replacing rear brakes

2014 Kia Optima replacing rear brakes

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

2 Ton
2 Ton
Floor Jack
2 Ton
2 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
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How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2014 Kia Optima (Rear Caliper Wind-Back Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, torque specs, safety tips, and piston push-and-rotate steps

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2014 Kia Optima (Rear Caliper Wind-Back Guide)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, torque specs, safety tips, and piston push-and-rotate steps

Orion
Orion

đź”§ Optima - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll be removing the rear wheels, taking the rear calipers off, swapping the pads, and then resetting (pushing back) the caliper pistons so the new thicker pads fit. On your Optima, the rear piston typically must be pushed in while being rotated because the parking brake mechanism is built into the rear caliper.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the car with jack stands before going under or pulling on bolts.
  • ⚠️ Chock the front wheels and keep the parking brake released while servicing rear brakes.
  • ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed (it can pop the piston out and leak fluid).
  • ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, not compressed air, and wear a mask.
  • ⚠️ Watch the brake fluid level while compressing pistons; it can overflow.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 21mm socket
  • 3/8" ratchet
  • Breaker bar
  • Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range)
  • 14mm socket
  • 17mm socket
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Disc brake piston wind-back tool kit (specialty)
  • Bungee cord
  • Wire brush
  • Brake cleaner
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Rear brake pad hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
  • High-temperature brake lubricant - Qty: 1
  • Brake cleaner - Qty: 1

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, shift to Park, and turn the ignition off.
  • Chock both front wheels with wheel chocks.
  • Release the parking brake fully (rear calipers won’t retract correctly if it’s applied).
  • Open the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir level; if it’s very full, remove a little fluid to prevent overflow when you retract pistons.
  • Plan to replace pads on both rear wheels as a pair.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen rear wheel lug nuts

  • Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to loosen (do not remove) the rear lug nuts about 1/2 turn while the car is on the ground.

Step 2: Lift and support the rear

  • Use a floor jack to lift the rear at the proper jacking point.
  • Set the car onto jack stands and gently shake the car to confirm it’s stable.
  • Remove the wheels using the 21mm socket.

Step 3: Locate the rear caliper and remove the lower/upper slide pin bolts

  • Turn the steering wheel is not needed for the rear; position yourself to see the back of the caliper.
  • Use a 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to remove the caliper slide pin bolts (typically 2 bolts).
  • Set the bolts aside where they won’t get dirty.

Step 4: Remove and support the caliper

  • Carefully lift the caliper off the bracket.
  • Hang the caliper from the suspension using a bungee cord (do not let it hang by the hose).

Step 5: Remove old pads and hardware

  • Slide the old inner and outer pads out of the bracket by hand.
  • Remove the stainless hardware clips from the bracket using a flathead screwdriver.
  • Clean the pad “tracks” (where clips sit) with a wire brush and spray with brake cleaner.

Step 6: Retract the rear caliper piston (push and rotate)

  • Install the correct adapter from the disc brake piston wind-back tool kit (specialty) onto the piston face.
  • Rotate the tool while applying inward pressure to retract the piston. Go slow; don’t force it.
  • Keep an eye on the brake fluid reservoir; stop if it’s nearing the top.
  • If the piston will not rotate/retract, stop and re-check that the parking brake is fully released.

Step 7: Install new hardware clips and lubricate contact points

  • Snap the new hardware clips into the caliper bracket.
  • Apply a thin film of high-temperature brake lubricant to the pad ears where they slide on the clips. Keep grease off friction material.

Step 8: Install the new rear brake pads

  • Slide the new pads into the bracket by hand.
  • They should move freely; if they stick, re-clean the bracket tracks with wire brush and brake cleaner.

Step 9: Reinstall the caliper and tighten slide pin bolts

  • Lower the caliper over the new pads.
  • Reinstall the slide pin bolts using a 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
  • Tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 34-49 Nm (25-36 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Repeat on the other rear wheel

  • Do the same pad replacement steps on the opposite rear side.
  • Always replace rear pads as a set.

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

  • Install the wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
  • Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
  • Torque lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench: Torque to 88-108 Nm (65-80 ft-lbs).

âś… After Repair

  • With the engine off, slowly pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm.
  • Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed (use the correct DOT-rated fluid shown on the reservoir cap).
  • Start the engine and hold the brake pedal; confirm it stays firm and doesn’t sink.
  • Do a low-speed test in a safe area; confirm normal stopping and no grinding noises.
  • Brake pad break-in: make 6-10 moderate stops from ~30 mph to ~5 mph, with cool-down time between stops.

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $130-$410 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.


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