🔧 Fusion - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, swing the rear brake calipers out of the way, replace the pads and hardware, then compress (or “wind back”) the caliper pistons so everything fits correctly. On your Fusion, the rear piston often needs to be rotated while pushing because the parking brake mechanism is built into the caliper.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Work on level ground and support the car with jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
• Chock the front wheels so the car can’t roll while the rear is lifted.
• Brake dust is unhealthy—avoid blowing it out; use brake cleaner instead.
• Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed (it can pop the piston out and leak).
• Brake fluid may rise when pushing pistons back—watch the reservoir to prevent overflow.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 7mm hex bit socket
• Torque wrench (20–200 Nm range)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Caliper piston wind-back tool (specialty)
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2 (optional if worn/grooved)

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📋 Before You Begin

• Set the parking brake, put the transmission in 1st gear, and turn the engine off.
• Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts about 1/2 turn before lifting (use a 19mm socket and breaker bar).
• Release the parking brake once the rear wheels are off the ground (you’ll need the rear rotors to spin freely during the job).
• Pop the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir level so you can monitor it when compressing pistons.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Chock both front wheels using wheel chocks.
• Lift the rear at the correct jacking point using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Set the car onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under safe support points.

Step 2: Remove the rear wheels

• Remove lug nuts using a 19mm socket and ratchet.
• Remove both rear wheels and set them aside.

Step 3: Locate the caliper bolts and remove the caliper

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed for the rear; position yourself for access behind the caliper.
• Remove the caliper slide pin bolts using either a 13mm socket or 7mm hex bit socket (use the one that fits your caliper).
• Carefully lift the caliper off the bracket.
• Support the caliper with a bungee cord so it doesn’t hang by the brake hose.

Step 4: Remove old pads and hardware

• Pull the inner and outer pads out of the bracket by hand; use a flathead screwdriver gently if they’re stuck.
• Remove the old pad clips (abutment clips) from the bracket using a flathead screwdriver.
• Clean the bracket pad ledges with brake cleaner and a wire brush until the new clips sit flat. Clean metal helps pads slide smoothly.

Step 5: Service the slide pins

• Pull the slide pins out of the bracket (you can twist and pull by hand; use needle-nose pliers carefully if needed).
• Wipe them clean and apply a thin coat of brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone).
• Reinsert the pins and confirm they move smoothly in and out.

Step 6: Retract (compress/wind back) the rear caliper piston

• Look at the piston face: if it has notches and won’t push straight in, it must be “wound back” (rotated while pushing) because of the parking brake mechanism.
• Use a caliper piston wind-back tool (specialty) to rotate the piston clockwise while applying inward pressure until it bottoms out.
• Keep an eye on the brake fluid reservoir while doing this; remove a little fluid if it nears the top.

Step 7: Install new hardware and pads

• Install the new pad clips from the hardware kit into the bracket by hand (press until fully seated).
• Install the new pads into the bracket. The pad with the wear indicator (if equipped) typically goes on the inside.
• Apply a very light smear of brake grease only on pad backing/contact points where specified by the pad kit (never on pad friction surfaces).

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper and tighten bolts

• Swing the caliper back over the new pads.
• Install and tighten the caliper slide pin bolts using the same tool you removed them with (13mm socket or 7mm hex bit socket).
• Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
• Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine off, slowly press the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the new pads).
• Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
• Apply and release the parking brake a few times to confirm it holds and releases normally.
• Test drive at low speed first and confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• Pad bedding (break-in): make 6–10 moderate stops from ~30 mph down to ~5 mph, letting brakes cool a bit between stops.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$160 (parts only)

You Save: $190-$290 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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