🔧 QX80 - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the rear brake pads restores safe stopping power and prevents rotor damage when pads get thin. On your QX80, this is a standard rear disc brake setup (with a separate “drum-in-hat” parking brake inside the rotor), so you’ll be removing the caliper and swapping pads/hardware.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

Assumption: Factory rear calipers (no electronic parking brake motor).

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground; chock the front wheels and keep the transmission in Park.
• ⚠️ Release the parking brake fully before starting (rear service requires it off).
• ⚠️ Support the SUV with jack stands; never rely only on a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose; it can damage the hose.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Watch brake fluid level; pushing pistons back can overflow the reservoir.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• Socket set (8mm-19mm)
• Torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
• Line hook or bungee cord
• C-clamp (6" minimum) or disc brake piston compressor (specialty)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Wire brush
• Brake parts cleaner
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware/clip kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone-based) - Qty: 1
• Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 1
• Brake fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4) - Qty: 1 quart

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, steering straight, transmission in Park, and parking brake released.
• Crack the rear lug nuts loose slightly using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and remove the brake fluid reservoir cap (leave it sitting on top) so fluid can rise as you compress the pistons.
• Set your tools and new pads where they won’t get contaminated with grease or dirt.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Chock the front wheels using wheel chocks.
• Lift the rear using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the rear jacking point.
• Set the SUV onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the frame/support points and gently shake-test for stability.

Step 2: Remove the rear wheels

• Remove the lug nuts using a 21mm socket and 1/2" drive breaker bar.
• Remove both rear wheels and set them aside.

Step 3: Remove the caliper (don’t remove the hose)

• Locate the two caliper slide-pin bolts on the back of the caliper.
• Remove the slide-pin bolts using a 3/8" drive ratchet and the correctly sized socket (commonly 14mm).
• Lift the caliper off the bracket. Hang it from the suspension using a line hook or bungee cord.
• Tip: Hanging it protects the brake hose.
• Torque to 26 Nm (19 ft-lbs) for caliper slide-pin bolts (when reinstalling).

Step 4: Remove old pads and hardware

• Slide the inner and outer pads out of the caliper bracket by hand.
• Remove the stainless pad clips/hardware using needle-nose pliers or a flathead screwdriver.
• Clean the bracket “pad lands” (where clips sit) using brake parts cleaner and a wire brush.

Step 5: Check slide pins and boots

• Pull each slide pin out of the bracket by hand.
• Wipe clean with shop towels, then apply a thin coat of brake caliper grease (silicone-based) to the smooth pin surface.
• Reinsert pins and confirm they glide smoothly. Make sure the rubber boots seat fully.

Step 6: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old pad against the piston face.
• Use a C-clamp (6" minimum) or disc brake piston compressor (specialty) to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
• A “piston compressor” is a tool that pushes the piston straight back without twisting.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing; remove excess fluid if it gets too full (use shop towels to protect paint).

Step 7: Install new hardware and pads

• Install the new pad clips into the bracket by hand (use needle-nose pliers if needed).
• Apply a very thin film of brake caliper grease (silicone-based) where the pad ears contact the clips (not on pad friction material).
• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper and torque fasteners

• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the slide-pin bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten using a 3/8" drive ratchet, then final-tighten with a torque wrench.
• Torque to 26 Nm (19 ft-lbs) for caliper slide-pin bolts.

Step 9: Repeat on the other rear side

• Repeat Steps 3–8 on the other rear wheel.
• Tip: Always replace pads on both rear wheels.

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the SUV off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
• Torque to 133 Nm (98 ft-lbs) for wheel lug nuts.

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✅ After Repair

• With engine OFF, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons).
• Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 or DOT 4 if needed.
• Start the engine and confirm normal pedal feel; do a slow test stop in a safe area.
• Bed-in the pads: make 6–10 moderate stops from ~30–40 mph, letting brakes cool briefly between stops.
• Check for leaks, abnormal noises, or pulling. Recheck lug nut torque after a short drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $300-$600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$180 (parts only)

You Save: $240-$420 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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