🔧 QX60 - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing your rear brake pads restores safe stopping and prevents rotor damage when pads get thin. On your QX60, this is a straightforward rear disc brake job: remove the caliper, swap pads, compress the piston, and reassemble with the correct torque.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours

Assumption: rear disc brakes with a mechanical (foot) parking brake, not electronic.

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the vehicle with jack stands before going underneath.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is off the rotor.
• ⚠️ Keep brake grease off pad/rotor friction surfaces; use brake cleaner if contaminated.
• ⚠️ Release the parking brake before starting so the rear calipers move freely.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—wear a mask and avoid blowing dust with compressed air.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 3/8" ratchet
• 1/2" breaker bar
• 14mm socket
• 19mm socket
• Torque wrench (20–200 Nm range)
• Flathead screwdriver
• C-clamp (6")
• Small wire brush
• Bungee cord
• Brake cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Dust mask

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone-based) - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, turn the ignition OFF, and place the transmission in Park.
• Chock the front wheels with wheel chocks.
• Release the parking brake fully (foot pedal type).
• Open the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir level; it may rise when you compress the caliper piston.
• Tip: Place a rag under the reservoir cap.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and raise the rear

• Use a 21mm socket with a 1/2" breaker bar to loosen the rear lug nuts about 1 turn (do not remove yet).
• Lift the rear with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the correct rear jacking point.
• Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and confirm it’s stable.

Step 2: Remove the rear wheel

• Remove the lug nuts using the 21mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
• Remove the wheel and set it flat under the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 3: Access the rear caliper and pads

• Turn the steering wheel is not applicable—rear stays straight. Inspect the caliper, rotor, and brake hose routing.
• If the caliper is tight, use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry the pad away from the rotor a tiny amount to create clearance.

Step 4: Remove the caliper (keep the hose safe)

• Use a 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to remove the two caliper slide pin bolts.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket.
• Support the caliper with a bungee cord so it does not hang by the brake hose.

Step 5: Remove old pads and hardware

• Pull the inner and outer pads out of the bracket by hand.
• Remove the pad clips/shims from the bracket (these are the “hardware” that the pads slide on).
• Use brake cleaner spray and a small wire brush to clean the pad slide areas on the bracket until smooth.
• Tip: Clean slides = quieter brakes.

Step 6: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old pad against the caliper piston face.
• Use a C-clamp (6") to slowly press the piston back into the caliper.
• Check the brake fluid reservoir as you compress; if it gets too full, stop and remove a little fluid (do not overflow onto paint).
• A C-clamp is a screw clamp that pushes evenly.

Step 7: Install new hardware and pads

• Install the new pad clips/shims from the Rear brake pad hardware kit onto the bracket.
• Apply a thin film of Brake caliper grease (silicone-based) to the pad “ears” where they contact the clips (not the pad face).
• Install the new pads into the bracket in the same orientation as removed.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper and torque bolts

• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the caliper slide pin bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the slide pin bolts: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
• If you removed the caliper bracket (not always necessary), use a 19mm socket and torque wrench for bracket bolts: Torque to 98 Nm (72 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Reinstall the wheel and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread all lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle off the stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Use a torque wrench (20–200 Nm range) and 21mm socket to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 133 Nm (98 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Repeat on the other rear side

• Repeat Steps 1–9 for the other rear wheel.
• Replace rear pads as an axle set (both sides) to keep braking even.

---

✅ After Repair

• With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal slowly 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pads).
• Check the brake fluid level and top off only if needed (use the correct DOT rating shown on the reservoir cap).
• Do a slow test drive and verify there are no noises, pulling, or warning lights.
• Bed-in the pads: make 6–10 gentle stops from 30–10 mph, letting brakes cool a bit between stops.
• Recheck lug nut torque after a short drive if you want extra peace of mind.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$180 (parts only)

You Save: $170-$270 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.