🔧 Highlander - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll be removing the rear caliper, swapping the old pads for new ones, and compressing the caliper piston so everything fits back together. This restores braking performance and prevents metal-to-metal damage to the rotors.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours

Assumption: your Highlander uses a standard rear caliper (no electronic parking brake).

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the SUV with jack stands before going under or removing wheels.
• ⚠️ Chock the front wheels and keep the parking brake released while servicing rear brakes.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—avoid blowing it with air; use brake cleaner instead.
• ⚠️ Do not let the brake caliper hang by the hose—support it with a bungee cord.
• ⚠️ Watch brake fluid level when compressing pistons; it can overflow.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range)
• 14mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-60 ft-lbs range)
• Needle-nose pliers
• C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Brake caliper hanger hook
• Wire brush
• Small flat screwdriver
• Brake parts cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit (abutment clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper grease (silicone-based) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, and release the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks in front of both front tires.
• Open the hood and loosen (do not remove) the brake fluid reservoir cap so fluid can move as you compress the pistons.
• Set your new pads and hardware out in order so you can match how everything was installed.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and lift the rear

• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the rear wheel lug nuts about 1/2 turn while the tire is still on the ground.
• Lift the rear with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at a safe rear jacking point, then set the vehicle on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).

Step 2: Remove the rear wheels

• Remove the lug nuts with a 21mm socket and take off both rear wheels.
• Set wheels under the vehicle as an added safety backup.

Step 3: Locate the rear caliper and remove the caliper bolts

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed for the rear; just face the caliper and find the two caliper slide pin bolts on the back side.
• Use a 14mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the two slide pin bolts.
• Slide pins are the small bolts that let the caliper float.

Step 4: Lift off the caliper and support it

• Carefully lift the caliper off the bracket by hand.
• Hang the caliper using a brake caliper hanger hook so it does not pull on the brake hose.

Step 5: Remove old pads and hardware

• Pull the old inner and outer pads out of the bracket by hand.
• If the pad hardware (abutment clips) is being replaced, use a small flat screwdriver to pop the clips out.
• Use brake parts cleaner spray and a wire brush to clean the pad “shelves” where the clips sit.
• Clean metal helps pads slide smoothly.

Step 6: Inspect slide pins and boots

• Pull each slide pin out of the bracket by hand.
• Wipe it clean, then apply a thin coat of brake caliper grease (silicone-based).
• Reinstall the pins and make sure the rubber boots seat fully.

Step 7: Compress the caliper piston

• Place one old brake pad against the piston face.
• Use a C-clamp (6" minimum) to slowly push the piston straight back into the caliper.
• Check the brake fluid reservoir as you compress; remove excess fluid if it approaches the top.
• Go slow to avoid damaging seals.

Step 8: Install new hardware and pads

• Install new abutment clips into the bracket by hand (use needle-nose pliers if needed).
• Apply a very thin layer of brake caliper grease (silicone-based) to the clip contact points where the pad “ears” touch.
• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.
• If your pad set includes shims, install them in the same orientation as removed.

Step 9: Reinstall the caliper and torque the bolts

• Lower the caliper over the new pads by hand.
• Install the slide pin bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-60 ft-lbs range) to tighten the slide pin bolts: Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall both wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts.
• Lower the SUV off the stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Use a 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range) and 21mm socket to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine off, press the brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the new pads).
• Re-check the brake fluid level and reinstall/tighten the reservoir cap by hand.
• Test at low speed first. Make sure the SUV stops straight and there are no grinding noises.
• Do a pad break-in (bedding): 6-10 moderate stops from ~30-35 mph down to ~5 mph, with short cool-down driving between stops.
• Recheck for leaks and look around each caliper for any wetness.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$160 (parts only)

You Save: $190-$290 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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