🔧 Soul - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, compress the rear caliper pistons, swap in new pads, and reassemble with correct torque. This restores safe stopping power and prevents rotor damage from worn pads.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

Assumption: Your Soul has rear disc brakes; if yours has rear drums, use the “Rear drum” steps below.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and chock the front wheels.
• ⚠️ Support the rear with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—wear dust mask and avoid compressed air.
• ⚠️ If equipped with a manual parking brake lever, release it fully before starting.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range)
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Flathead screwdriver
• C-clamp (6")
• Disc brake caliper piston rewind tool (specialty)
• Wire brush
• Bungee cord
• Brake cleaner spray
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Dust mask

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Brake pad hardware/clip kit - Qty: 1
• Silicone brake lubricant - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and release the parking brake fully.
• Chock both front wheels using wheel chocks.
• Crack the rear lug nuts loose 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and remove the brake fluid reservoir cap (leave it resting on top) so fluid can return as you compress pistons.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Lift the rear with a floor jack at the rear jacking point.
• Set the vehicle down onto jack stands under solid rear support points.
• Remove both rear wheels with a 21mm socket and ratchet.

Step 2: Locate the rear caliper and check what you have

• If you see a caliper grabbing a rotor (disc), continue to Step 3.
• If you see a closed “drum” with no caliper, skip to Step 11 (rear drum shoes).

Step 3: Remove the rear caliper (disc brakes)

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed; you’re working in the rear.
• Remove the lower and upper caliper slide bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it with a bungee cord so the brake hose is not stretched.
• Never let the caliper hang by the hose.

Step 4: Remove old pads and hardware

• Pull the inner and outer pads out by hand; use a flathead screwdriver gently if stuck.
• Remove the pad clips/hardware from the bracket.
• Clean the bracket pad “tracks” with brake cleaner spray and a wire brush.

Step 5: Check slide pins (important for even braking)

• Pull each slide pin out of the bracket by hand.
• Wipe clean, then apply a thin coat of silicone brake lubricant.
• Reinstall the slide pins and make sure they move smoothly.

Step 6: Compress the rear caliper piston correctly

• Look at the piston face: if it has notches and won’t push straight in, it is a “screw-in” piston.
• Use a disc brake caliper piston rewind tool (specialty) to rotate and press the piston in at the same time (a rewind tool is a tool that turns the piston while pushing it inward).
• If your piston does push straight in, use a C-clamp (6") to slowly compress it.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing; stop if it looks like it will overflow.

Step 7: Install new pad hardware and pads

• Install the new pad clips onto the bracket by hand.
• Apply a light film of silicone brake lubricant where the pad ears touch the clips.
• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper

• Slide the caliper back over the new pads.
• Install the caliper slide bolts using a 14mm socket and ratchet.
• Torque to 25-30 Nm (18-22 ft-lbs).

Step 9: If you removed the caliper bracket (only if needed)

• If the bracket had to come off for any reason, reinstall bracket bolts using a 17mm socket and ratchet.
• Torque to 70-85 Nm (52-63 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall both rear wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench.
• Torque to 88-108 Nm (65-80 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Rear drum brakes (if equipped) - shoe replacement overview

• Remove the drum (you may need light taps using the handle of a ratchet).
• Clean with brake cleaner spray and wear your dust mask.
• Replace the rear brake shoes and hardware as a set (drum systems use shoes, not pads).
• Adjust so the drum slides on with slight drag, then reassemble and torque wheels as in Step 10.

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm.
• Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed (use the correct DOT brake fluid listed on the reservoir cap).
• Apply and release the parking brake a few times to confirm it works normally.
• Do a slow test drive and verify no grinding, pulling, or warning lights.
• New pads need gentle stops for 150-200 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $130-$410 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.