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2013 Toyota Highlander
2008 - 2013 Toyota Highlander
V6 3.5L
Compatible with more variants.
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How To Replace The Rear Brake Pads And Rotors On A 2008-2013 Toyota Highlander

How To Replace The Rear Brake Pads And Rotors On A 2008-2013 Toyota Highlander

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
14mm
14mm
Socket
or (17/32")
17mm
17mm
Wrench
or (21/32")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
3/8
3/8
Torque Wrench
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How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2013 Toyota Highlander

Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2013 Toyota Highlander

Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013

Orion
Orion

🔧 Highlander - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

This repair replaces the rear disc brake pads on your Highlander. The rear caliper must be safely moved off the bracket, the old pads removed, and the caliper piston compressed before the new pads are installed.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on a cool vehicle parked on flat, solid ground.
  • ⚠️ Your Highlander is a hybrid, so keep the ignition fully OFF and keep the smart key away from the vehicle while working.
  • ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while the caliper is removed.
  • ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands. Never rely on a floor jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Do one side at a time so you can use the other side as a reference.
  • ⚠️ Brake dust can be harmful. Use brake cleaner, not compressed air, to clean brake parts.
  • ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not normally required for rear pad replacement, but the vehicle must remain OFF.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 21mm lug nut socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 17mm open-end wrench
  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • 3/8-inch drive torque wrench
  • 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
  • Brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty)
  • Flat blade screwdriver
  • Small wire brush
  • Brake caliper hanger hook (specialty)
  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
  • Brake cleaner - Qty: 1 can
  • High-temperature brake lubricant - Qty: 1 packet

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🚗 Park your Highlander on level ground and shift to Park.
  • 🅿️ Set the parking brake only while loosening the rear lug nuts. Release it before removing the rear calipers.
  • 🔑 Turn the ignition fully OFF and keep the smart key at least 15 feet away from the vehicle.
  • 🧱 Place wheel chocks in front of both front tires.
  • 🧰 A caliper piston compressor is a tool that slowly pushes the brake piston back into the caliper so the new, thicker pads fit.
  • 🧰 A torque wrench tightens bolts to the correct tightness so they are not too loose or over-tightened.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Rear Lug Nuts

  • Use a 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench or breaker bar to loosen each rear lug nut about 1/2 turn.
  • Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
  • Loosen nuts before lifting.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Rear of the Vehicle

  • Use the floor jack at the rear center jacking point or approved rear side jacking point.
  • Place jack stands under the approved rear support points.
  • Gently lower your Highlander onto the jack stands.
  • Lightly shake the vehicle by hand to confirm it is stable before working near the brakes.

Step 3: Remove the Rear Wheels

  • Use the 21mm lug nut socket to remove the loosened lug nuts.
  • Remove both rear wheels and place them flat under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Release the Parking Brake

  • Make sure the vehicle is stable on jack stands.
  • Release the parking brake before removing the rear brake caliper.
  • This prevents the rear brake assembly from staying clamped while you work.

Step 5: Remove the Rear Caliper Lower and Upper Slide Bolts

  • Use a 14mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the rear caliper slide bolts.
  • If the slide pin spins, hold the pin with a 17mm open-end wrench while loosening the bolt with the 14mm socket.
  • Remove the lower bolt first, then the upper bolt.
  • Do not let the caliper hang from the rubber brake hose.

Step 6: Support the Caliper

  • Lift the caliper off the rotor by hand.
  • Use a brake caliper hanger hook to hang the caliper from the suspension spring or a sturdy suspension point.
  • Make sure the brake hose is not twisted, stretched, or kinked.

Step 7: Remove the Old Rear Brake Pads

  • Use a flat blade screwdriver to gently pry the old inner and outer pads out of the caliper bracket.
  • Note the position of any wear indicator clip before removing the pads.
  • Remove the old pad hardware clips from the bracket by hand or with the flat blade screwdriver.

Step 8: Clean the Caliper Bracket

  • Use brake cleaner to spray the pad contact areas on the caliper bracket.
  • Use a small wire brush to clean rust and dirt from the stainless hardware seating areas.
  • Do not spray brake cleaner on painted body panels.
  • Clean brackets prevent sticking.

Step 9: Install New Pad Hardware

  • Install the new rear brake pad hardware kit clips into the caliper bracket by hand.
  • Use a very thin layer of high-temperature brake lubricant on the areas where the pad ears slide in the clips.
  • Do not get lubricant on the pad friction material or rotor surface.

Step 10: Compress the Caliper Piston

  • Place one old brake pad against the caliper piston.
  • Use the brake caliper piston compressor tool to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper bore.
  • Go slowly so brake fluid can return to the reservoir without overflowing.
  • If the piston resists strongly, stop and check that the parking brake is fully released.

Step 11: Install the New Rear Brake Pads

  • Slide the new inner and outer rear brake pads into the caliper bracket by hand.
  • Make sure the pads sit flat and move slightly in the hardware clips.
  • If equipped, place the wear indicator clip in the same position as the original pad.

Step 12: Reinstall the Rear Caliper

  • Lower the caliper over the new pads by hand.
  • Start both caliper slide bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use a 14mm socket and 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the rear caliper slide bolts.
  • Hold the slide pin with a 17mm open-end wrench if it spins.
  • Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Repeat on the Other Rear Side

  • Repeat Steps 5 through 12 on the opposite rear brake.
  • Use the same 14mm socket, 17mm open-end wrench, brake caliper piston compressor tool, and 3/8-inch drive torque wrench.
  • Keep the left and right old parts separated until the job is finished.

Step 14: Reinstall the Rear Wheels

  • Place each wheel back onto the hub.
  • Install the lug nuts by hand first.
  • Use the 21mm lug nut socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 15: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

  • Use the floor jack to raise the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
  • Remove the jack stands.
  • Lower the vehicle to the ground.
  • Use the 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the rear lug nuts in a star pattern.
  • Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

Step 16: Pump the Brake Pedal

  • Sit in the driver seat with the vehicle still OFF.
  • Press the brake pedal slowly several times until it feels firm.
  • This moves the caliper pistons back against the new pads.
  • Do not drive until the pedal feels firm.

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Check the brake fluid level under the hood and make sure it is between MIN and MAX.
  • ✅ Start your Highlander and press the brake pedal again. It should feel firm and steady.
  • ✅ Reapply and release the parking brake to confirm normal operation.
  • ✅ Test drive slowly in a safe area before normal driving.
  • ✅ Bed in the new pads with 8-10 gentle stops from about 30 mph to 5 mph, allowing light cooling time between stops.
  • ✅ Avoid hard braking for the first 100-200 miles unless needed for safety.
  • ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after the first short drive: Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $130-$330 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.


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