How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2013 Nissan Altima
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs for 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2024, 2025
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2013 Nissan Altima
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs for 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2024, 2025
🔧 Altima - Rear Brake Pad Replacement
Replacing the rear brake pads on your Altima involves removing the rear wheels, unbolting the rear calipers, swapping the pads and hardware, then safely compressing the caliper pistons back into place.
Your Altima uses rear disc brakes with a mechanical parking brake built into the rear caliper system, so the caliper piston must be turned while being pushed in. Do not force it straight in.
Difficulty Level: Beginner-Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface and support the vehicle with jack stands before removing any wheel.
- ⚠️ Do not rely on a floor jack alone. A floor jack lifts the car; jack stands hold it safely.
- ⚠️ Keep the parking brake released while servicing the rear calipers, but chock the front wheels so the vehicle cannot roll.
- ⚠️ Brake dust can be harmful. Do not blow it with compressed air; use brake cleaner and a rag.
- ⚠️ Brake fluid can damage paint. Wipe spills immediately with water.
- ⚠️ If the brake pedal goes to the floor after the repair, do not drive until the issue is corrected.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this rear brake pad replacement.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 21mm lug nut socket
- Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
- Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
- 14mm socket
- Ratchet 3/8-inch drive
- Rear brake caliper piston wind-back tool (specialty)
- Flathead screwdriver
- Small wire brush
- Bungee cord
- Brake cleaner spray
- Shop rags
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
- Brake lubricant - Qty: 1
- Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park your Altima on level ground.
- 🛞 Place wheel chocks in front of the front tires.
- 🅿️ Release the parking brake before lifting the rear of the vehicle.
- 🔍 Open the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir level. If it is at the MAX line, remove a small amount with a clean suction tool before compressing the calipers.
- 🧤 Put on safety glasses and gloves before working around brake dust and brake cleaner.
- 📘 A caliper is the clamp that squeezes the brake pads against the rotor to slow the car.
- 📘 A rotor is the round metal disc behind the wheel that the brake pads press against.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the Rear Lug Nuts
- Use the 21mm lug nut socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen the rear lug nuts about half a turn.
- Do this while the tires are still touching the ground so they do not spin.
- Loosen only; do not remove yet.
Step 2: Lift and Support the Rear of the Vehicle
- Use the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) at the rear center jacking point or approved rear lift area.
- Raise the rear of your Altima high enough for both rear wheels to clear the ground.
- Place jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) under the approved rear support points.
- Slowly lower the vehicle onto the jack stands and gently shake the car to confirm it is stable.
Step 3: Remove the Rear Wheels
- Use the 21mm lug nut socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to remove the loosened lug nuts.
- Remove both rear wheels and place them flat under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.
Step 4: Remove the Rear Caliper Lower and Upper Bolts
- Use the 14mm socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to remove the rear caliper slide pin bolts.
- Hold the caliper steady with your hand while removing the bolts so it does not drop.
- If the caliper does not slide off easily, use the flathead screwdriver to gently pry it outward.
- Do not pry against the rubber brake hose.
Step 5: Support the Caliper
- Use a bungee cord to hang the caliper from the suspension spring or another solid suspension part.
- Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose.
- 📘 The brake hose carries brake fluid to the caliper. Pulling on it can cause leaks or brake failure.
Step 6: Remove the Old Pads and Hardware
- Use your hands or a flathead screwdriver to slide the old rear brake pads out of the caliper bracket.
- Remove the old metal pad clips from the caliper bracket.
- Use brake cleaner spray, shop rags, and a small wire brush to clean the pad contact areas on the bracket.
- 📘 Pad clips are small stainless-steel guides that help the brake pads move smoothly.
Step 7: Install the New Pad Hardware
- Install the new clips from the rear brake pad hardware kit into the caliper bracket by hand.
- Make sure each clip sits fully flat in the bracket.
- Apply a thin layer of brake lubricant to the pad contact points on the clips.
- Do not get brake lubricant on the pad friction material or rotor face.
- A tiny amount goes a long way.
Step 8: Wind Back the Rear Caliper Piston
- Use the rear brake caliper piston wind-back tool (specialty) to push and rotate the rear caliper piston clockwise until it is fully seated.
- 📘 A wind-back tool turns the piston while pressing it inward; this is required on calipers with parking brake mechanisms.
- Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing the piston. If fluid rises too high, remove a small amount with a clean suction tool.
- Line up the piston notches so they match the small locating bump on the inner brake pad, if equipped.
- Do not use a plain C-clamp on this rear caliper.
Step 9: Install the New Rear Brake Pads
- Slide the new rear brake pad set into the caliper bracket by hand.
- The friction material faces the rotor.
- If one pad has a wear indicator tab, install it in the same general position as the old pad.
- Make sure the pads move smoothly in the clips without binding.
Step 10: Reinstall the Rear Caliper
- Remove the bungee cord and carefully lower the caliper over the new brake pads.
- If it will not fit, use the rear brake caliper piston wind-back tool (specialty) again to seat the piston farther.
- Install the caliper slide pin bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use the 14mm socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the caliper slide pin bolts to Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).
Step 11: Repeat on the Other Rear Side
- Repeat Steps 4 through 10 on the opposite rear brake.
- Always replace rear brake pads in pairs so braking stays even.
Step 12: Reinstall the Rear Wheels
- Place each rear wheel back onto the hub.
- Thread the lug nuts on by hand first.
- Use the 21mm lug nut socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Do not fully torque them while the wheels are in the air.
Step 13: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts
- Use the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to raise the rear slightly off the jack stands.
- Remove the jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum).
- Lower the vehicle until the tires touch the ground.
- Use the 21mm lug nut socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the rear lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).
Step 14: Pump the Brake Pedal
- Before starting the car, press the brake pedal several times until it feels firm.
- This moves the caliper pistons back against the new pads.
- Do not drive until the pedal feels firm.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Check the brake fluid level and make sure it is between MIN and MAX.
- ✅ Start the engine and press the brake pedal again. It should feel firm, not spongy.
- ✅ Apply and release the parking brake several times to help the rear calipers self-adjust.
- ✅ Look behind both rear wheels for brake fluid leaks.
- ✅ Test drive slowly in a safe area and make several gentle stops.
- ✅ Bed in the new pads with 8-10 moderate stops from about 30 mph to 5 mph, allowing a short cool-down between stops.
- ✅ Avoid hard braking for the first 150-200 miles unless it is an emergency.
- ✅ Recheck rear lug nut torque after your first short drive: Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $220-$420 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $45-$110 (parts only)
You Save: $175-$310 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















