🔧 Escape - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, swing the rear brake calipers out of the way, swap the pads (and hardware), then compress the caliper pistons so everything fits back together. The only “gotcha” on your Escape is the parking brake style—some have an electronic parking brake (EPB) that may need to be put into service/maintenance mode before compressing the pistons.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🧯 Support the Escape on jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• 🔥 Brakes can be hot—let everything cool before touching the rotor/caliper.
• 🧤 Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed (it can push the piston out).
• 🧪 Brake fluid may rise when compressing pistons—watch the reservoir to prevent overflow.
• ⚡ If your Escape has EPB, put it in service/maintenance mode (or use a scan tool command) before compressing rear caliper pistons.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (20–200 ft-lbs range)
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 7mm hex bit socket
• Flathead screwdriver
• Brake caliper compression tool (specialty)
• Bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone-based) - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the transmission to P, and chock the front wheels with wheel chocks.
• If you have an electronic parking brake (EPB) switch, plan to put it in service/maintenance mode before pushing the rear pistons back.
• Pop the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. You don’t need to open it, but you should watch the level while compressing pistons.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and raise the rear

• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the rear lug nuts about 1/2 turn (do not remove yet).
• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the rear of the Escape at the proper jacking point.
• Set the Escape onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).

Step 2: Remove the rear wheels

• Use a 19mm socket and ratchet to remove the lug nuts and take off both rear wheels.

Step 3: Identify your parking brake type (important)

• If you have an EPB switch on the console/dash: follow Step 4A.
• If you have a mechanical parking brake (pedal/lever and cables): skip to Step 4B.

Step 4A: Put EPB into service/maintenance mode (if equipped)

• If your dash shows an EPB warning, stop and ask.
• Best method: use a capable scan tool with a parking brake function and run Electronic Parking Brake > Maintenance/Service Mode.
• If you don’t have a scan tool: use the EPB switch and ignition sequence described in your owner/service information to enter maintenance mode (Ford varies by system). If you’re not sure it entered service mode, do not force the piston—use a scan tool.

Step 4B: Release parking brake (mechanical type)

• Make sure the parking brake is fully released before working on the rear calipers.

Step 5: Remove the caliper (slide) bolts

• Turn the steering slightly if you need more access, then go to one rear caliper.
• Use a 7mm hex bit socket (or the correct fastener for your caliper) with a ratchet to remove the two caliper slide bolts.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket.
• Support the caliper with a bungee cord so it doesn’t hang by the brake hose.

Step 6: Remove old pads and hardware

• Pull the old inner and outer pads out by hand (use a flathead screwdriver gently if they’re stuck).
• Remove the pad abutment clips (hardware) from the bracket.
• Use brake cleaner and a wire brush to clean the pad “tracks” where the clips sit.

Step 7: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old pad against the piston face, then use a brake caliper compression tool (specialty) to press the piston straight back in slowly.
• Check the brake fluid reservoir level as you compress the piston; use shop towels to catch any overflow.
• Go slow to avoid damaging seals.

Step 8: Lubricate and install new hardware + pads

• Install the new abutment clips onto the bracket.
• Apply a thin film of brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone-based) to pad contact points on the clips (not on pad friction material).
• Install the new pads into the bracket (inner pad on the piston side).

Step 9: Reinstall the caliper and torque fasteners

• Lower the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the caliper slide bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a torque wrench to tighten the caliper slide bolts: Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Repeat on the other side

• Repeat Steps 5–9 for the opposite rear wheel.

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and lower the Escape

• Install lug nuts by hand.
• Lower the Escape off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Use a torque wrench to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• With the Escape on the ground, pump the brake pedal 5–10 times until it feels firm (this seats the pads against the rotors).
• If equipped with EPB service/maintenance mode, exit it using your scan tool or the correct EPB procedure, then verify the EPB applies and releases normally.
• Do a cautious test drive and perform a few gentle stops. Avoid hard braking for the first 100–200 miles.
• Re-check brake fluid level and look for any leaks around the calipers.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $300-$550 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$180 (parts only)

You Save: $120-$490 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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