🔧 Flex - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the rear brake pads restores safe stopping power and prevents metal-to-metal rotor damage. You’ll remove the rear caliper, swap the pads (and hardware), then reassemble and pump the brake pedal to seat everything.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the Flex with jack stands before going underneath.
• ⚠️ Chock the front wheels; the rear will be off the ground.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.
• ⚠️ Avoid breathing brake dust; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
• ⚠️ Brake parts can be hot; let them cool before touching.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (30-200 ft-lbs range)
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-100 ft-lbs range)
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• Needle-nose pliers
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• C-clamp (6")
• Brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty)
• Wire hook or bungee cord
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop rags
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone brake grease) - Qty: 1
• Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and release the parking brake.
• Chock both front wheels using wheel chocks.
• Crack the rear lug nuts loose 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the hood and loosen the brake fluid reservoir cap (leave it sitting on top). This helps the caliper piston retract.
• A piston compressor tool pushes the piston back in. (This makes room for the new, thicker pads.)
• Assumption: Flex has rear disc brakes with a non-electronic parking brake.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the rear

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the rear at the approved rear jacking point.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under solid frame/support points and lower the Flex onto them.
• Give the vehicle a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable before removing wheels.

Step 2: Remove the rear wheel

• Remove the lug nuts using a 21mm socket and 1/2" drive breaker bar (or 1/2" drive torque wrench set to loosen).
• Remove the wheel and set it aside.

Step 3: Locate the caliper and check pad wear

• Look at the rear brake assembly: the caliper sits over the rotor and pads.
• If you see uneven pad wear side-to-side, you’ll want to clean and grease the slide pins in Step 6.

Step 4: Remove the caliper slide pin bolts

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed for the rear; just position yourself for access.
• Remove the caliper slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• If the slide pin spins, hold the pin gently with needle-nose pliers (don’t crush it).

Step 5: Remove and support the caliper

• Lift the caliper off the bracket. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to gently pry if it’s tight.
• Hang the caliper from the suspension spring using a wire hook or bungee cord.
• Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose.

Step 6: Remove old pads and hardware, then service the bracket

• Pull the inner and outer brake pads out of the bracket by hand.
• Remove the stainless pad clips (abutment clips) using needle-nose pliers or a flat-blade screwdriver.
• Clean the bracket pad “tracks” (where clips sit) using a wire brush and brake cleaner spray.
• Clean metal-to-metal areas so pads slide freely.

Step 7: Compress the caliper piston

• Place the old inner pad against the caliper piston to spread the force evenly.
• Use a brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty) (or a C-clamp (6")) to slowly push the piston back into the caliper.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir as you compress—fluid may rise. Use shop rags to protect paint from any spill.

Step 8: Grease slide pins (recommended every pad change)

• Pull each slide pin out of the bracket by hand.
• Wipe old grease off using shop rags, then lightly clean using brake cleaner spray (spray the rag, not the rubber boot).
• Apply a thin coat of brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone brake grease) to each pin, then reinstall.
• Make sure the rubber boots sit fully in their grooves so water stays out.

Step 9: Install new hardware clips and new pads

• Snap the new abutment clips from the rear brake pad hardware kit into the bracket.
• Apply a very thin smear of brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone brake grease) on the clip contact points where the pad “ears” touch.
• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket. They should slide smoothly.

Step 10: Reinstall the caliper

• Place the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the caliper slide pin bolts by hand first (to prevent cross-threading), then tighten using a 13mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs) for the rear caliper slide pin bolts.
• Hand-start bolts to avoid stripped threads.

Step 11: Reinstall the wheel

• Put the wheel back on and thread the lug nuts on by hand.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a 21mm socket and 1/2" drive torque wrench.
• Torque to 203 Nm (150 ft-lbs) for the lug nuts.

Step 12: Repeat on the other rear side

• Repeat Steps 1–11 on the other rear wheel.
• Replace rear pads in pairs, always.

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✅ After Repair

• With the Flex still parked, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm.
• Re-check the brake fluid level and tighten the reservoir cap by hand.
• Start the engine and press the brake pedal again to confirm normal feel.
• Test drive at low speed first. Confirm no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
• Brake pad bedding (break-in): make 6–10 gentle stops from ~40 to 10 mph, letting brakes cool a bit between stops. Avoid hard braking for the first 150–200 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹6,000-₹12,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: ₹2,000-₹5,000 (parts only)

You Save: ₹4,000-₹7,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run ₹800-₹1,500/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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