🔧 Explorer - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll be removing the rear wheels, unbolting the brake calipers, compressing the caliper pistons, and installing new pads on your Explorer. This restores braking performance and prevents damage to the rotors.

Difficulty Level: Beginner/Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5–2.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Always work on a cool brake system; hot brakes can cause serious burns.
• ⚠️ Park on a flat surface, put the transmission in Park, and chock the front wheels so the vehicle cannot roll.
• ⚠️ Never rely on a jack alone. Always support the Explorer with jack stands under solid frame or pinch weld points.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed; it can push the piston out.
• ⚠️ Avoid breathing brake dust. Use brake cleaner, not compressed air, to clean parts.
• ⚠️ Keep any grease or oil off the friction surfaces of pads and rotors.
• ⚠️ Make sure the parking brake pedal is fully released before starting work.
• Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 🧰 Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 🧰 Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, set of 2)
• 🧰 Wheel chocks
• 🧰 19mm socket
• 🧰 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 🧰 1/2" drive torque wrench (10–150 ft-lbs range)
• 🧰 13mm socket
• 🧰 15mm socket
• 🧰 3/8" drive ratchet
• 🧰 3/8" drive short extension
• 🧰 C-clamp (6" or larger) or disc brake caliper compression tool (specialty)
• 🧰 Flathead screwdriver (medium)
• 🧰 Needle-nose pliers
• 🧰 Wire brush (small, steel or brass)
• 🧰 Bungee cord or mechanics wire
• 🧰 Shop rags
• 🧰 Brake cleaner spray
• 🧰 Nitrile gloves
• 🧰 Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• 🔩 Rear brake pad set (left and right) - Qty: 1
• 🔩 Rear brake hardware kit (pad clips/shims) - Qty: 1
• 🔩 High-temperature synthetic brake grease - Qty: 1
• 🔩 Brake cleaner (aerosol can) - Qty: 1–2
• 🔩 Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park the Explorer on level ground, shift to Park, and set the front wheels with chocks.
• Make sure the parking brake pedal is fully released; do not work with the parking brake engaged.
• Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts slightly (do not remove) while the vehicle is still on the ground.
• Gather all tools and parts so you don’t have to leave the vehicle partially supported on a jack.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and support the rear of the Explorer

• Use the 19mm socket and breaker bar to loosen each rear wheel lug nut about one turn while the vehicle is on the ground.
• Position the floor jack under the approved rear jacking point (center of rear subframe or specified pinch weld area).
• Lift the rear until both wheels are off the ground, then place jack stands under the rear pinch welds or frame points on both sides.
• Slowly lower the vehicle onto the jack stands and gently rock the Explorer to confirm it is stable.

Step 2: Remove the rear wheels

• Use the 19mm socket and ratchet or breaker bar to remove the lug nuts on one rear wheel.
• Pull the wheel straight off the hub and set it aside flat so it cannot roll.
• Repeat for the other rear wheel.

Step 3: Inspect the brake assembly and hardware

• Look at the caliper (the clamp-shaped part) and the bracket behind it that holds the pads.
• Note how the existing pads sit in the bracket and which way any clips are oriented. Take a quick phone photo.
• Check the rubber dust boots on the caliper slide pins for damage or tears.

Step 4: Remove the caliper guide pin bolts

• Locate the two small bolts on the backside of the caliper (top and bottom). These are the guide pin bolts.
• Use the 13mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to loosen and remove both guide pin bolts.
• Carefully slide the caliper off the bracket. If it sticks, gently pry with the flathead screwdriver between the pad and rotor.
• Support the caliper with a bungee cord or mechanics wire from the suspension spring so it does not hang by the brake hose.

Step 5: Remove the old brake pads and hardware

• Pull the inner and outer pads out of the caliper bracket by hand. If they are tight, use the flathead screwdriver to gently lever them out.
• Remove the metal pad clips (hardware) from the bracket using your fingers or needle-nose pliers.
• Use the wire brush to clean the pad contact areas of the bracket where the clips sit. Remove rust and debris.
• Spray the area with brake cleaner and wipe with shop rags. Avoid spraying rubber parts.

Step 6: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old brake pad against the caliper piston surface.
• Use the C-clamp (or caliper compression tool) between the back of the caliper housing and the old pad.
• Slowly tighten the C-clamp until the piston is fully pushed back into the caliper. This creates space for the new, thicker pads.
• If you feel abnormal resistance, stop and check that the C-clamp is straight and not catching on anything.

Step 7: Install new hardware and prepare new pads

• Clip the new pad hardware (clips/shims) onto the caliper bracket by hand. Make sure they are fully seated and match the original orientation.
• Apply a thin film of high-temperature brake grease to the areas of the clips where the pad tabs will slide, not on the rotor or pad friction material.
• Apply a very small amount of grease to the backs of the pads where they contact the caliper or piston, if recommended by the pad manufacturer.
• Use only a thin coat; too much attracts dirt.

Step 8: Install the new brake pads

• Slide the new inner and outer pads into the hardware on the bracket. The friction surface faces the rotor on both sides.
• Ensure the pads move smoothly in the clips but do not rattle loosely.

Step 9: Reinstall the caliper and guide pin bolts

• Position the caliper over the new pads and rotor. You may need to press the pads slightly apart by hand so the caliper fits.
• Align the caliper with the slide pin holes on the bracket.
• Install the upper and lower guide pin bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the 13mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to snug both bolts.
• Finish tightening with the torque wrench and 13mm socket: Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Repeat on the other side

• Repeat Steps 4–9 on the opposite rear wheel.
• Always replace brake pads in axle pairs.

Step 11: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle

• Place the wheel back onto the hub, aligning the holes.
• Install the lug nuts by hand using the 19mm socket, snugging them in a star pattern.
• Use the floor jack to raise the Explorer slightly, remove the jack stands, then lower the vehicle to the ground.
• Use the torque wrench and 19mm socket to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Pump the brake pedal and check fluid

• Sit in the driver’s seat and slowly press the brake pedal several times until it feels firm. This seats the pads against the rotors.
• Open the hood and check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. Add the correct brake fluid type only if it is below the “MIN” line.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and gently press the brake pedal to confirm a firm feel.
• With the area clear, move the Explorer forward and backward slowly and apply the brakes to verify proper operation and no unusual noises.
• Perform a short test drive at low speed first, then moderate speed, checking for pulling, vibration, or grinding.
• Bed in the new pads: make 8–10 moderate stops from about 30–40 mph to 5–10 mph, allowing the brakes to cool slightly between stops. This helps pad life and performance.
• Recheck lug nut torque after the first short drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250–$400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $70–$150 (parts only)

You Save: $100–$300 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0–1.5 hours.

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