How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2008-2012 Honda Accord (Rear Caliper Wind-Back)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, piston rotation tips, and torque specs
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2008-2012 Honda Accord (Rear Caliper Wind-Back)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, piston rotation tips, and torque specs for 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012
🔧 Accord - Rear Brake Pad Replacement
You’ll be removing the rear wheel, swinging the rear brake caliper out of the way, and installing new pads and hardware. On your Accord’s rear brakes, the caliper piston must be rotated while being pushed in because it’s tied to the parking-brake mechanism.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the car with jack stands, not the jack.
- ⚠️ Chock the front wheels and keep the transmission in P.
- ⚠️ Make sure the parking brake is fully released before starting.
- ⚠️ Do not breathe brake dust; use brake cleaner and wear a mask.
- ⚠️ Don’t let the caliper hang by the hose; support it with a strap.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum, pair)
- Wheel chocks
- 19mm socket
- 3/8" ratchet
- 1/2" breaker bar
- Torque wrench (10–150 ft-lbs range)
- 12mm socket
- 17mm socket
- Flathead screwdriver
- Needle-nose pliers
- Brake caliper piston wind-back tool (specialty)
- Bungee cord
- Wire brush
- Brake cleaner spray
- High-temp silicone brake grease
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
- Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
- High-temp silicone brake grease - Qty: 1
- Brake fluid (DOT 3) - Qty: 1 bottle
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on a flat surface, put the shifter in P, and turn the ignition off.
- Release the parking brake fully.
- Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; keep the cap loosely set on top (helps prevent spills but allows venting).
- Loosen rear lug nuts 1/2 turn before lifting (use 19mm socket and breaker bar).
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and secure the rear of the car
- Chock the front wheels using wheel chocks.
- Lift the rear at the proper jacking point using a floor jack, then set the car onto jack stands.
- Remove the rear wheel using a 19mm socket and ratchet.
Step 2: Remove the caliper (but not the bracket)
- Turn the steering wheel slightly if you need better access (rear access is usually straight-on).
- Remove the lower and upper caliper slide-pin bolts using a 12mm socket and ratchet.
- Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it with a bungee cord.
- Never let the caliper hang by the hose.
Step 3: Remove the old pads and hardware
- Pull the inner and outer pads out of the bracket by hand; use a flathead screwdriver gently if they’re stuck.
- Remove the stainless pad clips (hardware) from the bracket using needle-nose pliers or a flathead screwdriver.
- Clean the pad seating areas on the bracket with a wire brush, then spray with brake cleaner spray.
Step 4: Retract the rear caliper piston (rotate + push)
- Check the brake fluid level at the reservoir first; if it’s near “MAX,” siphon a little out (use a hand pump if available) so it won’t overflow when the piston goes back.
- Use a brake caliper piston wind-back tool (specialty) to rotate the piston clockwise while pushing it inward.
- The piston face has notches; keep turning until the piston is fully seated.
- Rear pistons don’t press straight in.
Step 5: Install new pad hardware and pads
- Install the new pad clips from the hardware kit into the bracket by hand.
- Apply a thin film of high-temp silicone brake grease where the pad ears touch the clips (metal-to-metal contact points only).
- Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.
Step 6: Reinstall the caliper
- Lower the caliper over the new pads.
- Install the slide-pin bolts using a 12mm socket and ratchet.
- Tighten slide-pin bolts to Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.
Step 7: Reinstall the wheel
- Put the wheel back on and hand-thread the lug nuts.
- Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
- Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench to Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
Step 8: Repeat on the other rear wheel
- Repeat Steps 1–7 on the opposite side.
- Always replace pads in pairs.
✅ After Repair
- With the car on the ground, pump the brake pedal slowly 10–15 times until it feels firm.
- Check the brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 if needed.
- Test the parking brake operation (apply/release) at a stop.
- Do a cautious road test: low speed first, verify no pulling, grinding, or warning lights.
- Bed-in (break-in) new pads: make 6–10 smooth stops from ~50 km/h to ~15 km/h, letting brakes cool a minute between stops.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: ₹5,000-₹10,000 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: ₹2,000-₹6,000 (parts only)
You Save: ₹3,000-₹4,000 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run ₹1,000-₹2,500/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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Guide for Disc Brake Pad Set replace for these Honda vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2012 Honda Accord | - | - | - |
| 2011 Honda Accord | - | - | - |
| 2010 Honda Accord | - | - | - |
| 2009 Honda Accord | - | - | - |
| 2008 Honda Accord | - | - | - |


















