How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2012 Ford F-150
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2012 Ford F-150
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
🔧 Rear Brake Pads - Pad Replacement
Replacing the rear brake pads restores stopping performance and helps prevent rotor damage. On your F-150, this job involves removing the rear caliper, swapping the pads, and compressing the caliper piston before reassembly.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Work on a flat surface and chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
- Use jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- Brake parts can be hot if the truck was recently driven.
- Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.
- Check brake fluid level before compressing the caliper piston; fluid may rise in the reservoir.
- No battery disconnect is required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands
- Wheel chocks
- 19mm lug wrench or socket
- 13mm socket
- 15mm socket
- Ratchet
- Breaker bar
- Bungee cord or caliper hanger
- Brake caliper compression tool (specialty)
- Torque wrench
- Wire brush
- Brake cleaner
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Brake hardware kit - Qty: 1
- Brake caliper slide pin grease - Qty: 1
- Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Loosen the rear lug nuts slightly before lifting the truck.
- Release the parking brake before removing the rear caliper and pads.
- Keep the key off and the transmission in Park.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise and secure the rear of the truck
- Use the floor jack to lift the rear axle or frame at a safe lift point.
- Place jack stands under both sides and lower the truck onto them.
- Remove both rear wheels with the 19mm lug wrench or socket.
Step 2: Remove the caliper
- Use the 15mm socket and ratchet to remove the caliper slide pin bolts.
- Lift the caliper off the bracket.
- Hang the caliper with a bungee cord or caliper hanger; do not let it hang by the hose.
Step 3: Remove the old pads and hardware
- Pull the inner and outer brake pads from the caliper bracket.
- Remove any pad clips or hardware from the bracket.
- Use a wire brush and brake cleaner to clean the pad contact points.
Step 4: Inspect and service the slide pins
- Pull the slide pins out of the bracket if needed.
- Clean them with brake cleaner and apply a thin coat of brake caliper slide pin grease.
- Make sure the boots are not torn and the pins move smoothly.
Step 5: Compress the caliper piston
- Use the brake caliper compression tool to slowly push the piston back into the caliper.
- Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing.
- Go slow to avoid damaging seals.
Step 6: Install the new pads
- Install the new hardware clips from the brake hardware kit into the bracket.
- Place the new pads in the bracket in the same orientation as the originals.
- Make sure the pad friction material faces the rotor.
Step 7: Reinstall the caliper
- Slide the caliper over the new pads.
- Install the caliper bolts with the 15mm socket.
- Torque to 33 Nm (24 ft-lbs).
Step 8: Reinstall wheels and lower the truck
- Install the rear wheels with the 19mm lug wrench or socket.
- Lower the truck with the floor jack and tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Torque to 204 Nm (150 ft-lbs).
Step 9: Restore pedal feel
- Before moving the truck, pump the brake pedal slowly several times with your foot.
- Continue until the pedal feels firm.
- Never drive without a firm pedal.
✅ After Repair
- Check the brake fluid level and top off if needed.
- Test the brakes at low speed in a safe area.
- Listen for rubbing or grinding noises.
- For the first 200 miles, avoid hard stops to let the new pads seat properly.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60-$140 (parts only)
You Save: $190-$310 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















