How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2012 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs for 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2012 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs for 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013
🔧 Rear Brake Pads - Pad Replacement
Your rear pads wear down over time and should be replaced in pairs to keep braking even. This job on your truck is straightforward if you have a safe way to lift and support the vehicle, plus a way to compress the caliper piston before reassembly.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Work on a level surface and chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
- Support the truck with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- Let the brakes cool before starting if the truck was recently driven.
- Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.
- Your truck uses a rear drum-in-hat parking brake inside the rotor, so make sure the parking brake is fully released before removing the rotors.
- Use brake cleaner only in a well-ventilated area.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated for truck weight)
- Wheel chocks
- 21mm lug socket
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 18mm socket
- Brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty)
- Brake cleaner
- Wire brush
- Torque wrench
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
- Brake grease - Qty: 1
- Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the transmission to Park.
- Release the parking brake fully before removing the rear wheels.
- Chock the front wheels.
- Loosen the rear lug nuts slightly before lifting the truck.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and secure the rear of the truck
- Use the floor jack to raise the rear of the truck at the approved lift point.
- Place jack stands under the frame and lower the truck onto them.
- Remove the rear wheels with the 21mm lug socket.
Step 2: Remove the brake caliper
- Use the 18mm socket and ratchet to remove the caliper guide pin bolts.
- Lift the caliper off the bracket.
- Hang the caliper with wire or rest it carefully so the brake hose is not stretched.
- Do not let the caliper hang by the hose.
Step 3: Remove the old pads and hardware
- Slide the old inner and outer pads out of the bracket.
- Remove the pad clips and hardware from the bracket.
- Use the wire brush and brake cleaner to clean the bracket contact points.
Step 4: Compress the caliper piston
- Use the brake caliper piston compressor tool to push the piston fully back into the caliper.
- Compress it slowly and evenly.
- Watch the brake fluid level.
Step 5: Install the new hardware and pads
- Install the new pad clips from the brake pad hardware kit.
- Apply a thin coat of brake grease to the pad contact points and clip contact areas.
- Install the new inner and outer pads in the bracket.
Step 6: Reinstall the caliper
- Slide the caliper back over the new pads.
- Use the 18mm socket to reinstall the guide pin bolts.
- Torque to 31 Nm (23 ft-lbs).
Step 7: Reinstall the wheels
- Put the wheels back on and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
- Lower the truck to the ground.
- Use the 21mm lug socket and torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Torque to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs).
Step 8: Seat the brake pads
- Before moving the truck, press the brake pedal several times until it feels firm.
- Check the brake fluid level and top off if needed.
- Test the brakes at low speed in a safe area.
✅ After Repair
- Confirm the brake pedal is firm before driving.
- Listen for unusual scraping or clicking noises.
- Check both rear wheels for even braking and no fluid leaks.
- For the first 200 miles, avoid hard stops unless needed for safety.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60-$140 (parts only)
You Save: $190-$310 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















